Thursday 12 September 2013

How to choose Kitchen Cabinet Colors

How to choose Kitchen Cabinet Colors

Picking kitchen cabinet colors can be a big decision. You may have paint chips & swatches taped up all over your kitchen. Since you will probably have to paint several coats, you want to make sure you get the color right the first time. There is nothing worse than finishing a diy project that took several weeks only to discover that you hate the finished result. Here is how to pick kitchen cabinet colors that you will love for years to come.

Instructions

    1

    Base your kitchen cabinet colors around a subtle theme. This doesn't mean that your kitchen has to end up looking like a tacky restaurant. Instead follow the lead of Trading Spaces designers & look at food or flowers for your inspiration. It might seem like a kitchen based around a lemon would be too bright. However, if you cut open a lemon you will notice that there are many tones of yellow & even white. Stop thinking of an asparagus as being just green & really look to the things surrounding you for inspiration.

    2

    Keep it neutral. After you finish painting your cupboards, you will probably never want to do it again. So, choose kitchen cabinet colors that will work with a lot of different styles. This way you won't have to repaint when your decorating sensibilities change in a few years. This also ensures that if you need to sell your house you probably won't need to go through all of that work again.

    3

    Think of the kitchen cabinet colors en mass. Bright turquoise might be your favorite color so it seems like a fantastic idea to slap it on the cupboards. However, you probably have more cabinet space than you do wall space in your kitchen. This means that bright color will be the dominate one in the room & it will probably seem overwhelming. Instead, use a funky color on the window treatments, light fixture or get a new set of fun dishes.

    4

    Open up the magazines. Usually, if you are trying a diy project, the decorating magazines can be discouraging. Everything seems too expensive & requires a team of carpenters. However, you can probably see what the popular kitchen cabinet colors are. This is one thing that you can actually afford & emulate. A pretty paint color costs the same price as an ugly one.

How to Make Cabinet Doors With Moulding

New cabinets are a great way to transform an old kitchen or bathroom. They are also a very expensive way to do it. Simply replacing your cabinet doors can achieve much of the effect, with little of the cost. Just by using commonly available moldings and plywood, you can easily and quickly upgrade your doors and your kitchen or bath.

Instructions

    1

    Make a diagram of your cabinets. Measure the height and width of each cabinet door opening and record it on the diagram. Regardless of whether you choose to list height or width first, whichever dimension you list first should be the first dimension on all the doors. This saves a lot of confusion and remeasuring down the line.

    2

    Add a 1 inch to both dimensions on each door opening. Gang ripping the plywood is the fastest method, as opposed to cutting out one door at a time. Most of your doors should have some common dimensions. Simply rip a sheet of plywood to a common dimension, and then cut the individual doors out of the ripped sheet. For example, a lot of base cabinet doors will be the same height. Just rip the sheet to that dimension and then come back and cut the doors out according to width. That will save several cuts for each sheet of plywood.

    3

    Determine molding dimensions. There are two ways to do this. The first is more accurate but also more time consuming. Place a piece of molding where it will go on the door and use a pencil to mark the two corners. The second involves measuring each side of the door and recording the measurement. It is best to write the dimension on the side of the door as well as a separate cut sheet. Then use the measurements to mark the molding so you know where to cut each piece.

    4

    Using the marks made in Step 3, cut the molding. Each mark is a long point of a 45 degree cut. That is, the saw will cut from the mark, or long point, across and into the body of the molding, so that the front side of the molding is shorter than the back side.

    5

    Place the molding in place on the door and check to see if any pieces need to be recut. When all the molding is ready, apply glue to the back side and then nail in place. Fill the nail holes with wood putty and caulk the seams where the molding meets the plywood panel.

Wednesday 11 September 2013

How to Get a Designer Kitchen Backsplash

A backsplash will really give your kitchen a beautiful custom look. Here's how to design your backsplash.

Instructions

    1

    The very first thing you will have to decide is what look you would like to achieve. If you have a modern kitchen, country kitchen, traditional kitchen, euro kitchen or any other type of style, it must be considered first.

    2

    The next step is to think about the colors you would like to bring into your kitchen. Most kitchens are in the neutral color family and could really use a little color to jazz it up. The backsplash is the perfect place to do it.

    3

    Glass mosaic tiles are becoming more popular now than ever with new kitchens. Glass mosaic tiles come in square and subway but that doesn't mean you have to confirm to those shapes. It is possible to cut glass tiles with a tile cutter and make any design you like.

    Glass mosaic tiles look wonderful in modern kitchens, traditional kitchens and euro kitchens and the colors are limitless!

    4

    Homeowners looking to design their kitchen with a Tuscan theme will enjoy stone tiles or ceramic tiles that look like stone. Many people choose to paint these tiles but you if you are not very artistic you may buy a backsplash that is pre-painted.

    5

    Stainless steel backsplashes are really making a comeback with kitchen designers these days. A stainless steel backsplash is one of the easiest backsplash to keep clean.

    Stainless steel backsplashes can be installed as a sheet or tiles and come in several patterns and textures. The more interesting the texture or pattern, the more expensive the stainless steel backsplash will be.

    6

    A quartz backsplash is stylish and easy to keep clean. This look goes with almost any type of kitchen and comes in a variety of colors that will should suit almost any kitchen design.

    Quartz is nonporous, stain resistant, heat resistant and scratch resistant so if you are looking for a really sturdy stone, this alternative to granite or marble may be just what you are looking for.

    Quartz is sold as engineered stone and is 93% quartz and can be found almost anywhere granite and marble are sold. It can also be found at Home Depot, Lowes and other large home repair retailers.

    Engineered stone is very heavy so this project should be left to the professionals and do not try to do this yourself.

    7

    Look at home magazines to get ideas of what other kitchens are doing. When you go shopping for your backsplash, bring pictures of what you like so the sales person is on the same page with you and knows exactly what you are looking for.

Tuesday 10 September 2013

How to Cut Marble Counter Tops

Renovating the counter tops in your home can be a challenging task. You must measure correctly and make quality cuts to make your job look as professional as possible. Marble is a beautiful choice for counter tops, but cutting marble can be tricky.

Instructions

    1

    Mark the marble counter with a grease pencil where you want to cut it.

    2

    Put on your protective goggles and gloves.

    3

    Screw in a hose to the water connection on the wet saw. Plug the wet saw into a standard 110 V outlet. Turn on the water source.

    4

    Line up the wet saw with the cut line. Pull the saw's trigger and slowly push the wet saw through the marble. Don't go too fast as the marble won't get wet enough and the saw may crack the marble.

How to Install an Aluminnum Backsplash in a Kitchen

An aluminum kitchen backsplash can add a sophisticated, contemporary vibe to your kitchen or vintage charm depending on the pattern and finish you choose. Either way, it's economical, easy to install, less time-consuming than tile, and will give your kitchen a fabulous new look.

Instructions

    1

    Measure your backsplash area and purchase aluminum panels that most closely match your height. For example, 18 inches between counter top and the bottom of your overhead cabinets is most common, so you would purchase aluminum panels 18 inches high to minimize cuts. Measure the total length needed to complete your backsplash and order at least 2 or 3 extra panels to allow for mistakes.

    2

    Many merchants offer stamped designs or patterns. Choose one you like for your backsplash, but try and keep the pattern repeat to 6 inches if you are working with a smaller area (like the common 18-inch height).

    3

    Use tin snips with pointed blades (wear protective gloves) to trim your first panel to fit (if necessary, perhaps to accommodate an outlet or light switch in the wall) starting at an outside edge of your backsplash. Once it's trimmed and dry-fitted to the wall to ensure a snug fit, coat the back of the aluminum panel with adhesive, like Acrylpro Tile Adhesive. Make sure you spread adhesive into the stamped designs for the best protection against dents.

    4

    Press the buttered panel firmly in place against the wall. Then, hammer decorative brad nails into each corner to hold.

    5

    Cut the next panel. There will be a 3/8-inch overlap channel to help lock the 2 panels together for a snug fit. Still coat the back with adhesive, making sure to coat the stamped design well, but this time add a bead of clear caulk to the overlap channel before securing against the wall. Once placed on the wall, add the decorative brad nails in the corners and continue with the rest of the panels.

    6

    Once all the panels are in place and secured with brad nails, apply a bead of clear caulk between the countertop and bottom of panels. Let dry completely.

    7

    Sit back and enjoy your new backsplash.

How to Install a Shutoff Valve for a Kitchen Faucet

How to Install a Shutoff Valve for a Kitchen Faucet

It is convenient to be able to turn the water off under your kitchen sink if the faucet is in need of repairs or replacement. This is only possible if there is a shut-off valve installed on the hot and cold water lines feeding the kitchen faucet. Adding shut-off valves to the supply lines sounds more intimidating than it really is.

Instructions

    1

    Turn the main water supply valve to the whole house or building off and turn a water faucet on in another room to relieve pressure on the water system.

    2

    Wrap Teflon tape around the supply connection (the connection that the supply line for the hot and cold water for the faucet will be hooked up to) of the shut-off valve that will be installed under the kitchen sink. Look at the photo of the two valves above. The supply connection is the small hook-up pointing forward on the top valve and the small hook-up pointing upward on the bottom valve.

    3

    Clean the hot and the cold copper supply lines coming out of the wall under the sink with a piece of emery cloth to remove any dirt and debris. Cleaning the copper pipes will help the connection between the copper pipe and the shut-off valve become stronger and minimize the possibility of leaks.

    4
    This is what is called a compression fitting.

    Realize a leak-free connection between the copper pipe and the shut-off valve is made possible by what is called a compression fitting. A compression fitting is composed of a threaded nut, a compression ring and the shut-off valve itself. Slide one nut onto each copper pipe with the threading toward the ends of the copper pipes, followed by one compression ring for each pipe.

    5

    Slide the valves onto the ends of the pipes and slide the compression rings and nuts toward the valves. Tighten the nuts into the valves with a pair of crescent wrenches. Tightening the nuts onto the valves smashes the compression rings onto the copper pipe creating a water-tight seal. Be sure the valves are in the "off" position so all of the water pressure does not hit the faucet all at once.

    6

    Thread the hot and cold water supply lines that feed the faucet onto the supply connection of each valve and tighten with a crescent wrench.

    7

    Turn the main water supply to the house or building back on. Then turn the valves to the kitchen faucet to the "on" position.

How to Build a Kitchen Pantry

How to Build a Kitchen Pantry

A kitchen pantry is a necessity, especially if you have a family to care for. Whittle out some space for one in your kitchen. It takes some carpentry skills and time, but it's worth it to have a space to put your cereal.
This one is a bare-bones design, but you can make it as nice as you like by using better wood. The quantities and exact materials will vary according to your own specific needs.

Instructions

Making a Kitchen Pantry

    1

    Find a place where you can place a pantry. In the pictures, an unused closet whose back wall was in the kitchen was used. You may have a similar closet.

    2

    Block off your space with a plastic sheet hung from the ceiling down and taped shut; this next bit is very dusty. If you don't, drywall dust will get all over your home.
    Knock out the drywall with a hammer. In a closet, there should be no wiring or plumbing that will get in the way. Cut the edges with a box cutter or reciprocating saw to neaten.

    3

    Measure the empty space. You'll need the height, the width and the depth. Measure in several areas; the insides may not be square.

    4

    Design your pantry. Look at what you'll need to put in it and how much space you need between the shelves. If you like to buy large bulk cereal boxes, for instance, you'll need more space.
    Consider what kind of cooking you like to do. For example, you might like to have a shelf just for your baking goods, like your flour and sugar containers.

    5

    Install plywood on the sides, bottom and top of your pantry, securing with screws. If you are more concerned about appearance, you can use a nicer wood or laminate. Also note that if you want to paint or stain this wood, do it before you install it.

    6

    Make your shelves. The most difficult thing about making pull-out shelves is making sure they're sturdy enough to hold the weight of groceries like canned goods.
    These have a fiberboard bottom and sides created from 1-by-2s. Do one shelf at a time, to make sure each one works.
    Before you attach the pieces together, take the sides of the shelves and rout the outer sides near the bottom to make a groove for the hardware to work properly.
    Also, rout the inner sides so you can sit the fiberboard bottom tightly inside the grooves.

    7
    Countersink the screws and add cut dowels.

    Put the shelf together, using wood glue and screws.
    To make the shelf look a little nicer, countersink the screws on the front face. Measure the hole, then cut a piece of dowel in that circumference.
    Glue the dowel piece into the countersink hole.

    8

    Screw the slide-out hardware onto the sides of the cabinets. Take care that this is level.
    Attach the hardware to the bottom of the shelves.
    Repeat with as many shelves as you need.

    9
    Reinforcements.

    Reinforce the shelves. Doing this is a good idea because they'll hold a lot of weight. Here, 1-by-2 pieces of wood were measured to the correct width, then placed underneath the shelf with metal brackets.

    10

    Make a place to store cookie sheets and large pans by attaching a nonsliding shelf. Look at your pans and decide how far apart you want to make the niches. Cut spacers made out of plywood (or wood strips of your choice) and glue them to the top and bottom of this space. Then, measure plywood (or wood of your choice) to make the vertical spacers. Slide in the vertical pieces of wood to create the niches.

    11

    Finish the pantry. Add molding to the raw edges of drywall.
    Add cupboard doors (you may have to adapt off-the-shelf doors or make your own). You could also install a curtain instead.

Drinking Water Cooler Maintenance

Proper maintenance of water cooler equipment increases the chances that the water will remain fresh and sanitary. Cleaning and care of a cooler is relatively easy.

Cleaning Frequency

    Clean the cooler every six weeks, or each time you change the bottle. If the bottle is changed sooner than six weeks, clean the cooler then. Regular cleanings help to prevent bacterial contamination.

Cleaning Solution

    Use a bleach solution to clean the water cooler. Fill a sink or a bucket with a gallon of water. Add one tablespoon of bleach to the water. Allow the bleach to mix thoroughly with the water before you begin to clean the cooler. If you decide to prepare enough solution to last for several days, make sure that you use the solution or pour it out after 30 days. It is important that you use a fresh solution to clean the water cooler with every 30 days or less.

Water Dispenser

    Before you start to clean the water dispenser, unplug the cooler from the electrical outlet. Wear a pair of rubber gloves to protect your hands while you work with the bleach solution. You can use a sponge or wash rag to scrub the dispenser. After you clean crumbs and stains from the dispenser, drop the equipment inside the bleach solution. Let the dispenser soak for two to five minutes. Rinse the dispenser and the reservoir thoroughly. A good way to do this is to run cool sink water over the dispenser for several seconds. Clean the reservoir by pouring four glasses of clean sink water into the reservoir. Use a bucket to catch the water as it comes out of the reservoir.

Dip Tray

    Clean the dip try with a mild detergent. Feel free to use your dish detergent to clean the tray after you remove it from the cooler. Rinse the tray thoroughly before you reattach it to the water cooler.

Bottle Replacement

    Wash and rinse your hands before you handle a new water bottle. Wipe the neck of the new bottle with a paper towel before you place it in the cooler. Ensure that the expiration date on the bottle has not elapsed. It is also important that you are comfortably strong enough to lift the bottle to avoid personal injury. Remove the cap off of the mouth of the bottle and place the mouth in the cooler. Avoid touching the cooler spigot with your hands or other objects, to prevent bacterial growth.

Storing Bottles

    Water bottles should be stored in clean, well-ventilated areas. Bottles should not be stored near paint, other chemicals or in small bathroom or janitorial closets. To keep the water fresh, avoid storing bottles in direct sunlight.

How to Adjust Spring Tension

Most recently built homes have automatic garage door openers that mechanically raise and lower the doors, but whether your garage doors are opened manually or mechanically, they require springs to do the work. Springs decrease the workload on the machine and extend the lifespan of your door system. Over time, the springs on these doors wear out, and it can make putting the door up or down harder. But before you go out and buy a new set of springs, consider adjusting them to the brackets they are hooked on. This will adjust the tension of the spring and get more use out of them.

Instructions

    1

    Locate the springs. Most garage doors have at least two, and the springs are usually near the sides.

    2

    Close the garage door. Adjusting springs while the door is up could cause it to slam shut.

    3

    Find the bracket each spring is hooked into. These brackets will have multiple notches. Unhook each spring from its notch and place it in the next one down if the springs are too loose, or one higher if it is too tight.

    4

    Open the door. It should open and close without too much force.

    5

    Try different notches on the bracket to find the setting that works best if your first attempt failed. On some doors you can even move the brackets to get the optimum tension.

Ideas for Designing a Room

Ideas for Designing a Room

Designing a room involves implementing a variety of ideas from style to function. Planning and implementing a design budget is one of the first steps, followed by choosing style, color and accessories. Homeowners can decorate rooms themselves or hire professional interior designers for assistance.

Budget

    Considering how much money will go into the design of a room is essential. A budget can determine price points for a variety of room elements such as flooring, furniture and light fixtures. Make a budget by first figuring out how much money is available for the entire project. Then determine what are necessities, as well as items that would be nice to include but are not essential. Decide what items that are currently in the room can stay in the new design scheme. Determine whether any items can be refurbished by upholstering or painting.

Style

    Choose a style for the new room. Contemporary or modern design elements have clean, minimal lines and geometric shapes. Old World and French country decorating elements combine a rustic appeal with a mix of European antiquity. The 1950s can be seen through retro designs that implement vintage advertising pieces. Thumb through magazines to view different style ideas.

Functionality

    Determine how the room will be used. A room that will be occupied by pets and children may require furniture and carpeting that can handle additional wear. Consider scrubbable or washable paints in high-traffic areas. Find what key pieces are necessary to make the room most functional. For example, a home office may need additional outlets for computer access and setup, as well as additional task lighting.

Color Palette

    The psychology of color can set the mood in a room. Warm, golden colors such as reds, yellows and oranges cause stimulation and increased appetites and are commonly found in kitchens. Cool palettes of blues and violet hues promote relaxation. Dark colors can make a large room feel smaller and cozier, while pastel colors evoke a feeling of open space. Accent walls can be painted a different color to add additional color to a room.

Accessories

    Accessories are the finishing touches to a room. Adding coordinating accessories like light fixtures, rugs and throw pillows pull style, color and functionality together. When shopping locally, always ask what the return policy is. Many times an item may look great in the store but not fit as imagined when placed in a room.

How to Cut Kitchen Worktops

If you're building a new home or remodeling your kitchen, you must cut kitchen worktops for appliances such as stoves, surface units and sinks. There are several methods you may use to do this. A skill saw or a jig saw are the two best options. You may use a router in some cases.

Instructions

    1

    Cut kitchen worktops by first measuring your sink size. If your sink is a standard double-bowl, it's normally 33 by 22 inches. This is the overall width of the sink. So, your cut-out must be 32 by 21 inches. This gives you adequate area for your sink to set on top of your counter worktop. You must cut small radiuses on the four corners.

    2

    Use a skill saw to cut kitchen worktops. Cut from the bottom of your worktop. Cut your straight cuts with your skill saw. After you make your straight cuts, use two nails and nail one on each end of your sink cut-out. This holds up your sink cut-out so it won't chip your plastic when you finish your cut-out. Now, use a jig saw to finish your small radius cuts on all four corners.

    3

    Make a kitchen sink cut-out from the top of the counter once you've set your counters in place. Use masking tape to lay out your sink hole. On some worktops, you can't see your mark. Masking tape also helps prevent chips and damage to the plastic of your worktops.

    4

    Choose a jig saw for this cut if you're not comfortable using a skill saw. Drill a pilot hole on the inside of your mark so that you may start your cut with your jig saw. Make sure you stay on the inside of your line, keeping pressure down on your jig saw as you make your sink cut-out when you cut kitchen worktops.

How to Lighten Cherry Wood Kitchen Cabinets

Cherry wood darkens with exposure to light, so the kitchen cabinets that you loved when you installed them, may end up being too dark for your taste after a few years. Replacing the cabinets is not only expensive, but a huge messy project, so consider lightening your cherry wood kitchen cabinets instead.

Instructions

    1

    Clean your cabinets thoroughly. Often times, grease and dirt residue, especially in the kitchen, make cabinets appear darker. A good scrubbing may be all you need to lighten your cherry wood cabinets.

    2

    Bleach your cabinets using "A/B" bleaches sold in most paint and hardware stores. The process involves applying sodium hydroxide (A) followed by hydrogen peroxide (B). Apply B quickly, as the sodium hydroxide can actually darken the cabinets if left on too long. Read the directions on the package and test it out before putting it on your cabinets.

    3

    Strip off the finish on your cabinets. Chances are your cabinets are not stained if they are actually made out of cherry. But, some oil based finishes can darken the wood. Purchase a stripping solution at your local paint or hardware store. Once the finish is off, coat with a clear finish to seal and protect the cabinets.

    4

    Paint your cabinets to lighten them up. Some people would gasp at the idea of painting beautiful cherry wood cabinets, but if you are truly unhappy with them and don't want to do the work to strip them, paint over them.

    5

    Consider painting the kitchen a lighter color, adding more lights or adding a skylight or window. Often, a lighter shade of paint in the kitchen will change the look of the room and brighten it enough to offset the dark cherry cabinets. You may find that just lightening the room does the trick without actually touching the cabinets.

Monday 9 September 2013

How to Build Wood Countertops

Wood countertops give kitchens a solid, beautiful look that lasts for generations. Building your own wood countertops can be a unique project that requires you to carefully cut your wood to precisely fit the area in which you're installing it. You can choose a variety of wood types, depending on your particular likes and the style of your kitchen. It's best, however, to choose a hardwood such as oak, cherry, maple, walnut, teak, red beech or mahogany.

Instructions

    1

    Measure the counter space in your kitchen. This is important to know when you are choosing a design and also shopping for wood. Measure your current counters several times in order to be absolutely positive you are planning well. Careful planning, a seasoned woodworker will tell you, is the key to successful building.

    2

    Choose a wood that will stand up to the abuse and use that a kitchen counter is apt to see. Avoid soft woods such as pine which will leave dings and marks when anything dropped or hit against the surface. A hard surface like oak or maple will not give in to your daily abuse and will maintain its integrity for years.

    3

    Cut your wood based on the plans. Measure your wood cuts several times before making your incisions. Most likely, you have invested a great deal of money in your supplies and do not want to waste any to carelessness.

    4

    Remove all of your old counter surface. Clean the area. You rarely get to look at this area and take care of it. If you see dust or debris remove the bottom area of your countertop.

    5

    Set the new countertop on the countertop area. Adjust it so it sits straight and how you want it.

    6

    Attach the new wood by using either epoxy or nails, depending on what your plans call for. It is important to have your wood securely fastened to the top to avoid costly repairs in the future.

    7

    Apply a waterproof finish for your countertop. This will prevent the wood from warping and suffering damage while preparing meals.

How to Build Bamboo Cabinets

With new people constantly seeking greener building choices there has been a recent growth in people looking for ways to build bamboo cabinets. Bamboo is a quick growing plant that is quickly replenished in nature making it a renewable and very earth friendly resource as a building material. Keep reading to discover how to use this earth-friendly building material for your cabinets.

Instructions

    1

    Decide on a plan for your kitchen cabinets. This is one thing that you do not want to build on the fly. You need to either draft a plan or purchase a set of plans that are appropriate for your overall goals when you build bamboo cabinets for your kitchen. Plans can generally be found quite inexpensively and are worth every penny for the time they will save over 'winging it' with almost any building project.

    2

    Recruit help. Not only is building the cabinets in the first place a two-person job but also installing them. You will need help for a project of this scope and it's great to have an extra set of eyes in addition to the extra pair of hands.

    3

    Select the materials you will be using. It may be a no-brainer that you will be using bamboo when you build bamboo cabinets but there are various grades of bamboo and you want material that is appropriate and adequate to serve as cabinetry. Take your time when selecting this material as you are likely to be seeing it day after day for many years to come.

    4

    Gather tools. It is a good idea to move all the tools that you will be using for this project into one central location. This allows you to quickly and easily gain access to them all, saves time on the overall project, and clues you in quickly to any items that may be missing or inadequate to build bamboo walls.

    5

    Put the plan into action. You have purchased your plans, sorted your materials, and all that is left is to actually build bamboo cabinets. If you have chosen the plans wisely and according to your skill level and comfort zone you should have few problems completing the project with beautiful bamboo cabinets as your final result.

About Floor Plans for Houses

About Floor Plans for Houses

Designing a home is such a creative and inspiring project to think about and to dream of while looking through real estate ads. You can plan an architectural wonder home for a vacation rendezvous or an environmentally sound retirement cottage. Spacious bathrooms and sunset balconies, walk-in fireplaces and rustic kitchens are just a few design elements you can dream of while sitting at your job. Each detail of the house is imagined and adjusted to fit your desires. Of course, if you do not want to have to try to think it all through or maybe you just don't do well in the creative process then you can buy standard floor plans all measured and laid out for you. A lot of people start with a standard floor plan and then modify it with an architect to fit their needs, many times based on the limits of their money.

Significance


    Planning ahead is crucial in building a house. You need to measure every detail of the design and calculate it to fit together with the whole project. It is a serious job and takes hours of an architects' time. Many times, they will sit down with you and ask you questions about yourself so they can understand what is important to you in the home design. If you are an avid music lover, you might want you to have an acoustically-designed living space. If you are a food aficionado, then a gourmet kitchen with an open seating area might fit your cup of tea. If you simply want to make your home as efficient as today's architects can imagine, then alternative energy sources might be included in your plans. Without a plan, your house will be pointless and without a focal point, like a painting without a subject. Even if you start with a standard floor plan, making a few changes with your designer can turn it into a dream home you will be proud to call your own.

Expert Insight

    Professional Architects

    Even the best dreamer needs professional help when it comes to drawing up home plans. You need to meet city, county, and state building codes just to get the blueprints approved. The professional architect will plug all the design elements into a sophisticated software program that can calculate the different elements of the blueprints. The program will notify the user of problems until they are fixed. You ill be involved with many different professionals at each stage of the design process and a good architect will work through each level with you. Money is a key issue during this stage, as designers and architects are expensive to hire, but the investment will pay for itself many times over in the end. Expect your architect to ask you several questions, such as time frame, financial constraints, contact personnel, as well as detailed questions about your heating and cooling choices, lighting options, water and sewer options, and other specific issues about your plans.

Function

    Young Couple Dreaming of House

    The purpose of putting your dreams on paper and calling the resulting blueprint a house plan is simply so you can have a real tangible, visual drawing of what your house will look like. You might find that the dreams in your head are not the same looking when they are on paper. The same thing will apply when you show your plans to your builder. He will be able to see on paper what you are thinking and not have to rely on his interpretation of your desires. The house plan will be referenced over and over during the whole process and as a result you will be ordering many copies of the blueprints.

Considerations

    Frustrated Woman in House Planning

    Planning a new house can be a very satisfying process if you take the time to write down everything you think of and address it with your architect, before any action starts on the approval process of your blueprints. When you finally think you are finished, do not call up your architect and tell him you have a new idea. The approval process that can take weeks to get through will be stopped and process will have to be scheduled to start again at a later date. Your actual construction can be put off for months by not having a solid plan for the approval boards.

Prevention/Solution

    Unfinished House Construction

    If you really want to keep your house plans affordable and realistic, do your homework. Understand what your financial limitations are and find out what you think you can do within that framework. For instance, if you think you want a kitchen with granite countertops and high tech appliances but only have a budget for a few thousand dollars, your architect will have the embarrassing job of bringing your hopes and dreams down to reality. Make a budget and stick with it until you have a plan that stays within the boundaries. Plan on everything costing more than you thought, even after doing your homework and be ready for surprises.
    When you look for an architect, the most important issue is references. Ask them for a list of work they have completed and the name of a person who can vouch for their work. Most companies host online sites and list satisfied customers' responses, but look for comments, both good and bad, about the architectural firm from other sources as well. Check with the Better Business Bureau for any complaints filed against them.

How to Make Carpet Shampoo Cleaner

There are many homemade recipes for carpet cleaners. Many common stains can be treated with household items you have on hand, saving you from having to run to the store to buy a commercial cleaner. If one treatment does not work, go on to the next until your stain is removed and your carpet is looking as good as it did before the spill.

Instructions

Generic Cleanup

    1

    Soak your stain completely with club soda.

    2

    Combine one part borax with two parts baking soda or two parts corn starch.

    3

    Mix 1 tbsp. each of liquid hand soap and vinegar into a quart of water. Use this mixture in a spray bottle.

    4

    Combine one part each of non-bleach liquid laundry soap and one part liquid fabric softener with six parts water. Pour this mixture into a spray bottle or a carpet-cleaning machine.

Grease or Oil Stains

    5

    Sprinkle baking soda.

    6

    Try sprinkling corn starch to soak up the stain.

    7

    Cat litter or sawdust also can be used to soak up the stain.

Ink Stains

    8

    Sprinkle cream of tartar on the stain.

    9

    Follow with drops of lemon juice.

    10

    Dribble isopropyl alcohol over the ink in an area that is well-ventilated.

Blood Stains

    11

    Start with cold water.

    12

    Follow with old reliable club soda.

    13

    Allow hydrogen peroxide to bubble and work into the stain.

Tips on Pressure Washing Wood

Pressure washing can quickly and effectively clean any object around the house, from a fence to the outside of the home itself. A good pressure washer eliminates the need to scrub away dirt and grime. And while pressure washing makes cleaning easier, a few tricks can make the pressure washing itself easier, too. Work smart and a pressure washer can cut down on the time and water it takes to do the job.

Choose a Nozzle

    Choosing the correct nozzle for the job is an important part of pressure washing. You want a nozzle that will cover the most surface area while still effectively cleaning the object that is being pressure-washed.

    A brick wall, for instance, will withstand a harder pressure-washing stream than a glass window. For wood, it will depend on the type of job you need done. If you want to strip old chipping paint, try a more-concentrated nozzle with about a 15-degree spray. For a more-general cleaning of wood, try a nozzle with a wider spray, perhaps 25 or 40 degrees, the kind you would find on a car-wash nozzle.

    Try several nozzles and adjust the spray before settling on the one that seems to be doing the best job.

Aim Well

    If you are working around windows or other breakable objects, the force of the water stream from the pressure washer could very well break the glass. Aim the nozzle carefully when working around windows and other fragile material.

    Start the washing away from the object you want to clean and work your way into it. That allows you to test the washer's pressure. A pressure washer with a good strong stream may "chip away" at the material if you are standing too close and the stream is too concentrated in one area.

Spray Top to Bottom

    As with any cleaning, always work from the top down, sliding the dirt and grime toward the bottom. By starting at the top and working your way down, you only need to pressure-wash an area once, instead of having to go back and clean again the areas you've already covered.

How to Cut Granite Tops

How to Cut Granite Tops

Granite tops are now popular in kitchens and bathrooms. Homeowners often switch out their old counter tops and replace them with granite tops in hopes to sell their homes much faster. Granite tops are very hard stone, but are also very fragile, so it's crucial that you get a professional to cut the granite tops for you. HOWEVER, if you are determined to do it yourself, here's how to cut granite tops:

Instructions

    1

    Go to a granite shop and watch the professionals cut granite tops. Ask them questions if you have any. It always helps to have a point of reference when you're cutting granite tops on your own.

    2

    Measure the area the granite will cover. Be sure to measure several times! Make note of areas that need to be cut out (sink, etc) of the granite slab.

    3

    Use scrap pieces of granite to practice on. You'll need to get used to handling the saw before you cut on the main granite top.

    4

    Use a diamond wet saw to cut large sections of the granite top. Use a waterjet saw to cut intricate shapes like the sink opening. Use a router to shape the edges of the granite top as desired.

    5

    Be careful! Cutting the sink opening is challenging since granite tops are very fragile. Once you start cutting, there is no turning back. Measure twice (or more!) and cut once.

How Does an Entry Door Complement a Home's Architectural Style?

The Right Proportions

    Whatever the architectural style of your home may be, the front door is the first thing visitors look at. When the entry to your home blends in with the architecture, the entry door itself is a welcoming site. If the entry door is too small or too big, or contradicts the style of your home, visitors will get a sense of discord, and the welcoming feeling you hoped to achieve will be absent.
    One of the more important factors to consider is size, or more precisely, proportion. An entry door should reflect the proportions of the facade of your home. When your door reflects the height and width of the facade of your home, the entry way is balanced. The roof and sides of your home lead the eye to the door and the door leads the eye outward.
    If the facade of the home is long, as in a rambling ranch, a double door with sidelights will pull the two "wings" of the house together. This is an example of balance.

The Location

    Where the front door is located also affects its impact on the overall appeal of your home. Bungalows, for example, will sometimes have the entryway located off to one side. This door needs to be prominent so visitors can more easily determine where the entrance is. But bungalows are often smaller, and their facades limited in size. To compliment the coziness of the bungalow architecture, the door should be small, but paneled and brightly painted.
    Most doors are somewhat centered to a home's design. When it's the center of attraction, it needs to be a jewel in the architecture.

The Decorative Elements

    A door that reflects the geometric elements of the architecture is more likely to compliment your home. Doors are rectangular; this is part of how they work. But doors can be more than their shape.
    Victorian architecture is known for its spires and arched windows. The door of a Victorian home should be tall, with intricately carved scrollwork and curved hardware. An arched transom further compliments the architecture, as do sidelights.
    On the other end of the spectrum, a mid-century modern ranch home with its clean lines and understated windows needs a door that reflects the linear and geometric appeal of the home's style. A door with high gloss paint and a frosted window or block glass sidelights would do well for the mid-century architecture.

Where to Buy Glass Block Windows

Where to Buy Glass Block Windows

Glass block windows have the unique ability to provide both natural light and insulation to a living space. They're often used for basement windows, but they can make any living space more beautiful. Glass block windows are practical alternative to standard windows, and they're often used in place of solid walls; they're even used for ceilings and floors.

History

    Single glass blocks were first used to provide light in cellars and to the bowels of ships. These first glass blocks were square sections of conventional glass. Around 1880, glass blocks were constructed in the shape of bottles. They were mouth blown and had a slight opening. Even though these blocks were set in mortar, condensation always worked its way in. Machine-made glass blocks were the next stage of development, which were an improvement in size consistency. In the 1930s, improved machines created even better products. The Corning-Steuben and Owens-Illinois blocks were among them. These blocks were constructed by two halves of glass block pressed together at high temperatures, leaving a hollow center and complete seal. The same basic principle of construction is used in making glass blocks today.

Glass or Acrylic

    Some of the best features of glass block windows are their thermal insulation, security (over standard windows), excellent light allowance, and decorative beauty.

    Acrylic block has been introduced as a less expensive alternative to glass block. When making your choice, consider that glass block is much harder than acrylic block, and cleaning will leave no scratches on glass. Routine cleaning of acrylic will leave scratches over time. Acrylic block also is easily scratched by workers during installation. Acrylic block windows eventually acquire a faded and cloudy appearance.

Stores that Sell Glass Block Windows

    Glass block windows are sold at Home Depot, Lowe's and hardware stores. Any building or home improvement store will carry glass blocks. Not all home improvement stores will have unique shapes commonly required by interior projects, such as curved sections, but most will gladly order them for you at no extra charge.

Shopping for Glass Block Windows Online

    If you're located far from brick and mortar home improvement retailers, many online outlets sell glass block windows. Many of them offer free quotes over the phone, a real time saver.

    Pacific Accent offers a wide choice of patterns in glass blocks and frame option on their Website that is located in our Resources section.

    Block Window Systems offers a series of affordable glass block windows, which can be ordered online. This company offers both acrylic and glass block windows and has free shipping on all orders.

    Pittsburgh Corning's Website provides a list of retailers that stock their brand of glass block windows. Follow the links in our Resources section. Enter your zip code for the ones nearest you.

Colored Glass Block

    Columbus Glass Block has a large collection of colored glass blocks and design options to choose from. You can add a splash of color to a standard glass block window, or create a design of your own.

    Blocks with designs are not painted on, but are fused to the glass so they will not chip or crack. You can purchase or create large murals or paintings spread out over a large grouping of glass blocks, or you can purchase a design for one single block.

Warning

    None of the products or retailers listed here are recommendations. Please take care when making your purchase.

    If you're building a glass wall for your shower, you may be able to do the project yourself. If you're installing a large glass block window into an exterior part of your home, you should consult with a builder.

How to Repair a Sanding Belt

A sanding belt is your best friend in woodshop. What a dilemma it can be to have it not working properly. But fear not, for the solution is probably really quite simple. Most sanding belts have a tendency to slip off tracking or consume too much dust. You will want to know your torque for your sanding belt as well.

Instructions

Fix your sanding belt easily

    1

    If the tracking is a problem, then see if the belt is tracking in the middle of the rollers.

    2

    Loosen the motor.

    3

    Toe-in or tow-out the rollers. Adjust until the tracking is centered.

    4

    If there is a problem with tension, simply tighten the belt. When it stops slapping, you know youve repaired the belt sander. Dont tighten too much though. You just want it not to slip.

    5

    If you determine that dust is the cause of the problem, fixing it is simply a matter of running the belt away from the motor. Make sure you note which direction the belt is running. Also, if you work with an open frame motor, try installing a frame/ shield for the motor. You can purchase a totally enclosed and fan cooled frame from any serious hardware or tools store.

    6

    If your torque isnt enough, you may need to check the pulley. The head pulley is equal to the torque x the speed/ RPM.

How Does Sound-Deadening Work?

How Does Sound-Deadening Work?

What is Sound Deadening?

    Sound deadening is the process by which a home, building or other structure is made less able to carry sounds. This is done as a privacy measure during the structure's construction, so that sounds generated within one room will not carry to another room. To effectively understand how sound deadening works, one must first understand how sound travels.

How Does Sound Travel?

    Sound exists as an energy wave, emitting from the source and travelling outward in all directions until the energy of the wave has dissipated over the space it has traveled. This is why one must yell to be heard by another person over a distance. By yelling one generates greater energy in the sound wave, causing it to travel further. Sound can be redirected and manipulated as well. If one were to make a loud noise in an empty room containing nothing but hard surfaces, you would make an echo. Also the sound you made would be much more easily heard from adjacent rooms as well. The echo is created because the majority of the sound wave bounced back toward you once it impacted against the hard surfaces of the room. Also, some of that sound energy was transferred into the wall upon impact, causing something called sympathetic vibrations. Essentially the wall vibrates at a frequency or frequencies identical to the sound waves that passed into it, becoming a secondary source of sound energy. This vibration acts like an amplifier, transferring the sound through the wall to any adjacent rooms. However, sound is muffled by soft, yielding, porous surfaces. Such surfaces absorb the sound energy without transferring it.

How Does Sound Deadening Work?

    Sound deadening works by heavily insulating the interior of a structure's walls with soft, porous, foam-like or cottony material. This prevents the wall from creating sympathetic vibrations and transferring the sound out of the structure's individual spaces. In homes or buildings where you don't want echoes to bounce within rooms, the easiest way to soundproof that building is to install thick carpeting, drapes and other soft pieces of furniture where the sound will be absorbed. Specially designed foam wall panels are made to be placed on the walls of recording studios in order to completely soak up unwanted echoes. However for residential purposes this is an incredibly expensive and unsightly option.

Sunday 8 September 2013

How to Calculate an Electricity Bill

According to the U.S. Department of Energy, American households can expect to pay anywhere from $0.06 to $0.12 per kilowatt-hour for electricity. This can translate to hundreds of dollars each month depending on your household usage. Many people are interested in learning how to calculate their electricity bill, and, ultimately, trim the fat from their bill. Learning important pointers on determining the cost per kilowatt-hour and off-peak rates will help you understand and control electricity costs.

Instructions

    1

    Check out local costs per kilowatt-hour. For example, a company may charge $0.06 per kilowatt hour for the first 500 hours, and $0.10 per hour after. If you review your bill, this information should be included on the front page. Or, you can contact your utility company directly for pricing information.

    2

    Make a list of items that are notorious for using high amounts of electricity. For example, an electric oven, water heater, dish washer, air-conditioning unit and furnace typically consume the most energy.

    3

    Once you've made a list of the big energy users in your home, use a free online electricity calculator to estimate your costs (see Resources). This will give you the number of kilowatt-hours used, cost per month and cost per year.

    4

    Ask your utility company whether rates are higher during peak hours. Some utility companies charge higher rates after 6 p.m.

    5

    Compare the accuracy of your estimate to your electricity bill. Once you've calculated the average cost of your electricity bill, review the accuracy of your estimate for a few months. You can also reduce energy consumption on high-consumption items, such as air-conditioning units and heaters, and evaluate the impact monthly.

How to Scale Building Blueprints

Blueprints are graphical reproductions of buildings and other structures. They are created to provide the builder with an idea of how an infrastructure should look. These documents serve as guides to engineers, architects, carpenters and everyone in the construction industry because they contain instructions on how big each part of the building is going to be. That is why it's important for blueprints to also contain precise measurements for every part of the structure.
Blueprints contain miniature drawings of a building so the actual measurements are scaled down so they would fit in the paper. Simply put, scaling a building blueprint means creating a floor plan that that is proportion to the structure that is going to be constructed.

Instructions

    1

    Learn how to read the scale. The scale is like a ruler that has divisions on it to represent standard proportions to distances. You need to understand the scale ratios for you to be able to scale a building blueprint accurately. For instance, if you're going to draw an object following its actual size, the scale is going to be 1:1. A unit measure of the drawing equals a unit of the actual object. If you're going scale it down, you will have to use a ratio that will make it smaller, for instance, drawing a structure at a fifth of its actual size (1:5).

    2

    Determine a scale to use for the building. Logically, the bigger the object really is, the smaller the scale is going to be. For instance, a house might use a scale of 1:1/4---that is, for every foot of the actual size of the building, you measure a fourth of an inch on paper. So 4 feet on the building, is equivalent to an inch on the scaled building blueprint.

    3

    Convert the actual measurements of the building according to the scale ratio of your choice. If you're going to draw a 1:1/4 building blueprint, you need to select the side of the scale rule that is marked 1:1/4.

    4

    Create the scale using the graph paper. Following the 1:1/4 scale ratio, you re-create the ruler on the graph paper this time designating how big 1 foot of floor space is supposed to be. On a scale of 1:1/4, measure inch on the graph paper and mark it as 1 foot.

How to Make An Installation Drill Jig for Installing Cabinet Drawer Pulls ("D" Style)

How to Make An Installation Drill Jig for Installing Cabinet Drawer Pulls (

Installing "D" style drawer pulls in your kitchen and Bathroom cabinets can be a challenge. Making sure that the drawer pull is in the correct location, located consistently with adjacent drawers, with attachment holes are at the correct spacing and are square to the drawer is a challenge. By following the directions in this article you will be able to construct a drawer pull jig. It will ensure that each drawer pull is in the correct location, the mounting holes are at the correct distance apart and square and true.

Instructions

    1
    Drawer Pull Mounting Location

    Determine the location for your drawer pulls. I would recommend installing them in the center of the drawer face. Then following this location for all remaining drawers. I've used sticky tack to layout my pulls, this allows for making adjustments without any damage to the drawer faces.

    2

    Measure the distance from the top of the drawer and from the side to the center of the pull. In our case the face of the drawer is 17-1/2" wide x 6-3/16" high, so I will be installing the pull centered at 8-3/4" from the edge, and 3-3/32" from the top.

    3

    Measure the distance between the mounting holes for the pull. Our is 3-3/4" between mounting holes.

    4
    Drill Jig Mounting Board

    The jig mounting board needs to be at least 2" wider then the drawer, and extend 2" below the center line for the drawer pull.
    Using my drawer face of 17-1/2" wide and a center line dimension of 3-3/32", I selected a piece of wood 19-1/2" x 7-1/2".

    5
    Horizontal Centerline for Drawer Pulls

    From the top edge of the board draw a horizontal line that is equal to the drawer pull center location plus 1" (to allow for the installation of the location dowel pins). Draw a horizontal line across the board.

    6
    Vertical Centerline for Drawer Pulls

    (Measure from the edge of the board the center line distance (from step 2) plus 1" and make a vertical line this will be the center position of the drawer pull.

    7
    Mounting Screw Locations

    Then measure to each side of the vertical mounting line, 1/2 the distance of the drawer pull mounting holes and make a mark on each side of the vertical center line. Check your work at this point with the drawer pull, the mounting holes should line up with your marks and be centered on the mounting board.

    8
    Guide Dowel Pin Position Line

    Measure up from the horizontal centerline the vertical distance for the pull (from step 2) and draw a horizontal line. Then measure up 1/2 the width of the dowel pins and make a second horizontal line. The second line will be the horizontal mounting position for the dowel pins.

    9
    Top Guide Dowel Pin Locations

    From the vertical center line measure over 6" on each side and make a mark. This will become the location for your guide dowel pins. These pins will rest on the top of the drawer face to accurately set the horizontal position of the pull.

    10
    Side Guide Dowel Pin Location

    Measure over from the vertical center line the center line distance (from step 2) and draw a vertical line, then measure 1/2 the width of the dowel pin and make a second line. the intersection of this line and the center line for the drawer pull will be the location for your guide dowel pin.

    11
    Dowel Pin Locations For Drilling

    Drill dowel pin holes using the dowel pin drill bit.

    12

    Drill drawer pull guide holes in jig being very careful to remain perpendicular to the board.

    13

    Insert dowel pins in the top and side locations. These pins on the mounting jig will provide the position on the drawer face to insure that each location is consistent.

    14
    Drawer Pull Drill Jig In Postion

    To use the jig for installing your drawer pulls, place the top guide dowel pins of the jig on the top edge of the drawer and slide the jig to the right placing the side guide dowel pin on the side of the drawer. You may notice that I have an additional piece of wood mounting to the face of my jig, that was due to not having a piece of hard wood large enough for the task so I used another board for the location settings and mounted a hard wood board to the face for the drill guide.

    15
    Drilling the Mounting Holes

    Now that the jig is in position you can use your drill to drill the mounting holes for the drawer pulls.

    16
    The Completed Job, All the handles are all lined up and at an equal distance from the top of the drawer!

    To install the drawer pull insert the mounting screws in the drawer face and screw in to the pull. If you are a little off in your locations, one can use a slightly larger drill bit and open up the clearance between the holes. Just be careful not to go to large so that the drawer pull doesn't cover the holes.

    17
    Installation of Cabnet Knobs

    See my article on installing cabinet knobs for further details on installing your drawer pulls.
    http://www.ehow.com/how_4722118_cabinet-door-knobs-location-jig.html

How to Use Wood As a Tub Surround

How to Use Wood As a Tub Surround

Plastic pre-made tub surrounds are everywhere these days, but the fact is, the walls above and around your tub can be covered with anything you like--as long as it's resistant to moisture. Even wood will work, if you hang and seal it correctly. This design is for a classy-looking, library-style tub surround of stained and glossed oak panels dressed with trim. The wood is stained and given one gloss layer before hanging it, and then is given two more gloss layers after hanging to help protect it from moisture. It's a complicated project and shouldn't be attempted unless you're very comfortable with your carpentry skills, but the result will make your bathroom a place that people talk about.

Instructions

    1

    Prepare your wood. Lay out all your wood panels and trim in a well-ventilated work area. Gently sand (by hand) all surfaces that will be exposed, and wipe away the dust. Use the stain brush to apply the stain generously to the sanded wood. After 10 minutes, wipe it away with a paper towel. Let the stain dry overnight, then apply the polyurethane gloss, brushing it on slowly to avoid creating bubbles. Let it dry overnight.

    2

    Measure the broadest wall above the tub and cut pieces of wetrock to size. To cut the wetrock, stand it on its long end. Use your tape measure to mark at the appropriate length. Set your T-square on the top edge of the piece with the flat guide running down through the mark. Make one straight cut with your razor knife along the guide. Snap the piece into a right angle at that line, then cut it along the reverse side to separate the pieces.

    3

    Affix the wetrock to the wall by spreading carpenter's glue around the back, pressing it against the wall, then driving in drywall screws with your drill and screwdriver bit. Put screws every 6 inches throughout each piece. Repeat all along the area around the tub until it's completely covered with wetrock sheets.

    4

    Use your tape measure, pencil, level and T-square to divide the largest wall into four even sections, with the lines spanning the width and length completely and crossing in the middle. Make sure the horizontal line is level, and that the vertical line crosses it at a 90-degree angle.

    5

    Spread carpenter's glue on the back of one wood panel and press it on the wall near the middle, so that it's bordered on two sides by the horizontal and vertical lines. Nail the panel into place with trim nails, putting them about every 6 inches and sinking them just below the surface of the wood with the nailset. Repeat for each of the other panels, placing them next to each other in a checkerboard pattern until you've hung as many full panels as will fit on the wall.

    6

    For the edges of the wall, cut additional panels to size using your circular saw, and hang them in the same manner. Repeat the process for the other two walls around the tub, so the whole area is surrounded by wood panels with seams in a checkerboard pattern.

    7

    Measure the two vertical corners of the area and cut two corner trim pieces to size. Glue and nail them in place in the same manner as the panels, EXCEPT first drill pilot holes in the wood for the nails so the trim doesn't split. Measure the exterior edges around the outside of the paneled area, and cut bullnose trim to size. Miter at the corners as necessary. Glue and nail the trim into place, again drilling pilot holes.

    8

    Measure the longest horizontal seam from the edges of the corner trim on both sides, and cut a piece of the flat trim to size. Glue and nail it into place, with pilot holes. Repeat for the other two horizontal seams (on the other two walls), then do the vertical seams, which will each be the height of a wood panel minus half the width of the trim on either side.

    9

    Once the whole wood enclosure is up, tape newspapers all over the tub to protect it. Go over all the wood lightly with sandpaper, by hand, to buff the gloss so the second coat will stick. Wipe the wood of all dust. Apply the second coat of gloss with a brush, using slow careful strokes to avoid bubbles or drips. Let dry overnight, buff again, and apply a third coat.

    10

    Run a caulk line completely around the top and sides of the tub where it meets the wood.

How to Install Granite Tile Kitchen Countertops

Installing granite tile countertops in your kitchen is one of the surest ways to add value to your home while also updating its decor. Granite typically produces a large return on its investment, and purchasing tiles instead of a granite slab can potentially save you thousands of dollars. The average do-it-yourselfer can install granite tile countertops in the kitchen over the course of an afternoon.

Instructions

    1

    Measure, cut with a circular saw, and install a layer of plywood substrate to begin with. Screw 1/2-inch cement backer board to your plywood, and countersink the screws just below the surface of the cement board.

    2

    Cut 2-inch (or your preferred size) strips of cement board, and screw those to the edges so they are flush with the top of the cement board.

    3

    Use a sawzall to cut the area where your kitchen sink will be installed later on. Cut carefully as to not hit any cabinets below the surface of the plywood substrate.

    4

    Spread your mixed thin-set mortar, using a notched trowel, to an area on top of the cement board closest to the edge.

    5

    Lay full tiles on the outer edges, butting the tiles against each other. Overhang this row of tiles to compensate for the granite tile strips you'll add to the edges last.

    6

    Use a tile saw to cut the tiles that will be placed along the wall, around the sink cutout and the 2-inch strips along the edges. No matter what size of tiles you use or what shape you counter is, chances are you will need to cut tiles to fit in certain areas.

    7

    Apply the thin-set mortar to the side of the cement board (and wall for an optional backsplash/border), and position the 2-inch edging tiles. Make sure these strips are aligned with the tiles on top of the counter for a professional look.

    8

    Let the mortar dry for a few hours, then add grout in between the seams of the tiles with a rubber float. Wipe off excess grout with a wetted sponge, and add an optional sealer once the grout has dried to help prevent stains.

How to Drill Granite

How to Drill Granite

Granite is a beautiful and colorful rock used as a building material. It is placed as floors and countertops in kitchens and bathrooms. It is very solid and dense and difficult, yet not impossible to drill through. Granite rock has an even texture and a light color. It is mainly comprised of feldspar and quartz. Depending on the type of feldspar found in the granite, you might find the rock to be light gray, pink or dark gray. Some say that granite was solidified from molten rock, but others say granite shows little if any contact with surrounding wall rock. They determined that granite, one of the oldest known rocks on earth, gradually just came to be.

Instructions

    1

    Insert a core drilling bit into your drill motor. Do not use a masonry bit. They are not strong enough to adequately drill through granite.

    2

    Place a white bottle cap--one you would find on a medicine bottle--over the area on the granite where you will drill. The cap opening must face up.

    3

    Press a plumber's putty around the base of the medicine cap. The putty will hold the cap in place and form a damn around the cap.

    4

    Pour any type of oil into the cap up to 1/4 inch from the top. The putty will keep the oil from leaking out onto the granite.

    5

    Position the drill bit inside the cap with oil and begin to drill. Let the drill spin for 10 seconds, then allow the drill to sit in the oil and cool down for 10 seconds.

    6

    Continue drilling for 10 seconds and cooling down for 10 seconds. Alternate the procedure until you've drilled through the granite.

How to Build Tile Counter Tops

Tiling you kitchen or bath counter tops not only adds beauty to your room, but creates counters that are easy to maintain. You can choose from an endless supply of color, shape, size and material. Stone is dramatic, while ceramic is neat and clean--you can even go with a sleek slate. The trick to great counter tops that will last forever is all in the preparation and decking. Take your time and make sure you have all the makings for some sandwiches because this project will take about three days.

Instructions

    1

    Measure your area. Standard counter tops are 25 inches deep, but be sure measure to the outside frame of your cabinet.Measure the length and don't worry about the sink opening because you always add on with tile to account for cuts and breakage. Take a separate measurement for the front and sides that show for your bull nose tile. For your back splash you need to decide if you're going to just put a bull nose or tile the entire area between your top and bottom cabinets. Then take that measurement. Now you can take these measurements to your home improvement store and tile store and buy all of your supplies. If you don't know how to figure how much tile and thin set you will need, the store clerk can help you. There are two kinds of sinks to use with tile counter tops, one that goes under the tile and a one that goes on top. The one that goes top is a little harder to keep clean around the seal, but look at both and decide which one you like.

    2

    Cut your plywood. Using your measurement of your depth and length, cut your plywood and lay it on top of your cabinets. You want this to be very level. Screw the plywood into the cabinets, factory side out and check the level, if it's off you can use shims under the foot of the cabinet or you can remove the screws and shim the frame. If you use the shims under the foot, make sure you place them so they won't be removed later. Once you have it level cut your backerboard. You can scribe it and just snap it. If you are using a flush mount sink you need to cut your opening and install it before your backerboard. If you're using a self rimming, you don't install it until the counter is finished, but you will need to measure and cut your opening now. Make sure you leave enough room behind the sink to install your back splash.

    3

    Spread a coat of thinset with the 1/4 notched trowel on the plywood and install your backerboard. Screw the backerboard to the plywood with 1 1/4 inch cement board screws every 8 inches or so. Now cut strips of backerboard to cover the plywood edge. Put on the thinset just as you did for the top and nail the strips in place about every 6 inches. Cut some strips of fiberglass mesh tape and put it over the corners, trowel on some thin set and let every dry for a few hours.

    4

    Check your tile layout. You can set some tiles out on the top to see how they will fit. You want your cuts to be at the back of your counter. Check how it will match up with your backsplash and adjust cuts or spacing. If you have a special pattern tile, set out the pattern to see where you like it to start or end up. You can set a chalk line for each line of tile to make sure they are straight, or you can just measure and draw a line so you can make adjustments to your cut pieces.

    5

    Mix your thinset and start laying your tile. This is the easy part. Mix only enough thinset to do about 6 square feet at a time so it doesn't dry out before you use it. Use your 1/4 inch notched trowel and spread it on a small area, starting at your front corner. Place your tiles down into the mortar and use your spacer for the next tile. If you are using tiles that aren't exactly the same size, don't use spacers. You will need to do these by sight. Make sure you are keeping your tiles level with each other. When you get to the back of the counter, measure and cut your tile to fit. Use a wet saw to the tiles, it rarely breaks the tiles like snippers do and leaves a nice smooth cut. You can rent one if you don't have one. Once you have the counter all set, you can work on the back splash. Put in a bullnose or you can tile the whole area. You may have to use nails in the grout space to hold the tile up and then duct tape to one another until the mortar starts drying and holding them into place. Depending on your cabinet layout will depend on where you want your cuts to be. Lay a row and decide. Install your bullnose edge. They make special tiles with rounded edges for the edge of your counter. Install the same way with the mortar and duct tape works great to hold them on until they set. Follow the recommended time by the manufacturer of the thinset you used for the time to allow everything to dry before moving on to the next step.

    6

    Mix your grout. Grout comes in many colors and sanded and non-sanded. The non-sanded kind is better for wet surfaces and the darker colors don't show the stains left by coffee or other spills you will have on a kitchen counter. The non-sanded grout shrinks when it drys and you will need to use two coats. Remove the grout spacers. Mix the grout according to the directions and place some on the tile. Using the grout float push the grout into the spaces between the tiles. Do a small area at a time. Keep a clean bucket of water with your sponge in it and sponge off the excess as you move along. Grout the entire top and backsplash and let dry.

    7

    Seal your tile and grout. There are a few different types of sealers you can buy. Some sponge on and some spray on. Use the sponge on type, seal the entire area. Let it dry and repeat.

How to Control Tree Roots in Sewer Lines

How to Control Tree Roots in Sewer Lines

As tree roots grow, they can infiltrate residential pipes, causing clogs, backups and damage to your sewer system. Although PVC sewer lines are more resistant to root infiltration than clay tile or concrete pipes, they are not impenetrable. Remove trees and avoid planting new ones near your sewer system to prevent roots from growing into the lines. It is difficult to keep the trees and control their root growth. Cutting the roots is a form of pruning and encourages them to grow faster and stronger than before. Copper sulfate crystals introduced into the soil above the sewer lines kill existing tree roots and repel new growth.

Instructions

    1

    Contact your local sewer district or hire a plumber to plot the location and depth of the sewer lines.

    2

    Call the national before-you-dig number, 811. They will provide you with information about the surrounding underground utilities so you avoid cutting into them.

    3

    Drill a hole with a hand-operated auger. The hole should end 18 inches above the sewer pipe.

    4

    Insert a length of 1-1/2 inch PVC pipe into the hole and make a mark with the hacksaw at ground level. Remove the pipe from the ground.

    5

    Cut the pipe, an inch below the mark, with the hacksaw.

    6

    Screw a threaded female adapter with a plug onto the pipe.

    7

    Push and twist the open end of the pipe into the hole until you reach the bottom. Keep the cap flush with the ground so you can mow and walk safely over the area.

    8

    Repeat Steps 3 through 7 to continue building entry points every 6 feet along the sewer line.

    9

    Remove the plugs on the tops of the pipes.

    10

    Pour copper sulfate crystals into each pipe. Follow the manufacturer's directions for the correct amount to use.

    11

    Fill the pipes with hot water. The water dissolves the crystals to seep into the ground.

    12

    Replace all of the plugs on the pipes.

    13

    Refill the pipes with copper sulfate crystals and hot water every four months

Installing a Wall Oven

Installing a Wall Oven

Important Considerations and Warnings

    Measure the cutout dimensions of your cabinet for the built-in oven that you plan on replacing. Compare this measurement with the product dimensions.

    Ensure that the base of the cabinetry can support up to 400 pounds. Check the level of the cabinet to ensure that the installation is straight.

    Follow important safety instructions. Proper electrical grounding is necessary and must be in accordance with the local codes or with the national Electrical Code ANSI (American National Standards Institute), NFPA (National Fire Protection Association) Publication 70.

    Shut off the electrical power of the wall oven while making the line connections to prevent accidental electrocution. Disconnect the main power to the junction box before making the electrical connection. Never use an extension cord for the wall oven to prevent fire, electrical shock and other injury.

    This is at least a two-person project. Get help in carrying and maneuvering the wall oven into place. Remove the oven door, grids and grids supports for easier lifting.

Installation

    Wall Oven

    You would need a drill, screwdriver and level to install the wall oven.

    Start by installing the mounting brackets into the cabinet by drilling pilot holes where the brackets would go. Install the wall oven into the cabinet opening. Leave enough clearance, at least 1 1/2 inches, between the oven and front of the cabinet. While pushing the appliance inward, pull the armored cable through the hole in the floor close to the junction box. The electrical connections should already be in place as part of preparation steps.

    Push the wall oven in and against the cabinet until you see the side bracket clip in on the cabinet side opening. Check that the appliance is straight and level. Adjust as necessary. Then put the grids supports, grids and oven door back in place.

Checking Operation

    Remove any packing materials that may still be present inside the oven. Turn the power on. Verify that each oven control and function work properly. When testing the "Bake" function, the oven should turn hot within 20 seconds of turning it on. You should feel the heat coming from the oven when you open the door. When you test the "Broil" function, the upper element in the oven should turn red in color. If your wall oven comes with the "Convection" function, the convection fan will run. Set it to convection roast or bake to check the elements cycle on and off. The fan should stop running once you open the door.

How to Use a Digital Thermostat

How to Use a Digital Thermostat

A thermostat is a device that designates when your heater will go off. If you like your house to remain at approximately 70 degrees F, you would set your thermostat to that temperature. Whenever the temperature in the room drops below that mark, the thermostat tells the heater to begin heating the room. A digital thermostat displays the temperature in exact degrees, and allows you to control the heat in your room with ease.

Instructions

    1

    Decide what temperature you would like your home to be. If you are not sure, start out with 70 degrees F.

    2

    Press the up or down arrows, depending on what the digital thermostat is automatically set at. If you want your house to remain 70 degrees F, and it says 82 degrees F, press the down arrow 12 times. When you let go, you will see your set temperature briefly before the digital thermostat switches back to showing the current room temperature.

    3

    Press the up or down arrows to change the temperature if you are not happy with it. It will automatically switch back to showing you the set temperature, rather than the current room temperature.

    4

    Select the day or night button. If your digital thermostat has this feature, you can set one temperature for the day, and a different one for the night. Press the button that looks like a sun, then press the up or down arrows to select your daytime temperature. Then, press the button that looks like a moon and move your up and down arrows to select your nighttime temperature.

Saturday 7 September 2013

How to Build a Raised Breakfast Bar

How to Build a Raised Breakfast Bar

A breakfast bar in a kitchen is an added feature that makes life easier. You can use it to fill the purpose the name suggests, or it can be the perfect place to entertain guests serving their favorite beverages. We will use medium density fiberboard (MDF) to construct this raised breakfast bar because it has a smooth surface, making it easy to apply a finish.

Instructions

Building the Wall

    1

    Measure the length of the existing cabinet, subtract one inch and cut three two-by-fours to that length. Lay two of the two-by-fours side by side on the table. Measure from one end and mark every 16 inches until you reach the length of the two-by-four.

    2

    Make a mark -inch away from either side of those marks. Place a carpenter's square on these marks and draw lines across the two two-by-fours.

    3

    Measure from one end of two more two-by-fours and make a mark at 42 inches. Cut these with the electric miter saw. Cut a 37-inch stud for the ends of the longer pieces and one for every mark you made in Steps 1 and 2. Place the two long pieces of lumber on top of the two 37-inch pieces of lumber and secure them with 16d box nails. Next, place a stud for every mark made and secure them with 16d nails. Place the third two-by-four on top of the wall and secure it with 16d nails.

    4

    Set the fence of the table saw at 42 inches and rip the 96-inch length of the MDF. Measure the length of the wall you built and mark it accordingly on the MDF. In addition, cut two pieces of the -inch MDF to 4-by-42-inches. If your wall is longer than 48 inches, it will be necessary to use a second sheet of the material.

    5

    Lay the stud wall down flat and place one of the pieces of material cut with the table saw on top of it. Secure it to the wall with 8d finish nails. Repeat this for the other side and the two ends of the wall. Place the wall against the back of the cabinet and secure it to the cabinet through inside back of the cabinet itself with one-inch drywall screws.

Building the Bar Top

    6

    Place the piece of MDF that is 18-by-(length of the bar)-by--inches.
    Measure the length of your wall, add three inches to it and cut the material to that length.

    7

    Apply some glue to the 1-inch side of the 1-by-18-by--inch MDF. Place them on the ends of the bar top slab and secure them with 6d box nails.

    8

    Measure the distance between these two pieces from Step 2 and cut two more pieces of the 1-by--inch MDF. Apply some glue to the 1-inch side of these and secure them between the two 18-inch pieces with 6d box nails. These four pieces create a 1-inch edge around the top.

    9

    Turn the top over so that the pieces just installed are on the bottom. Measure in 3-inches along one of the long edges and make a mark every 8-inches. Drill countersink holes on every mark. Apply glue to the top of the wall built in the previous section and set the bar top on it. Secure it to the wall through the countersink holes from Step 3 with the 1-inch drywall screws.

    10

    Fill the countersink holes with wood putty and allow it to dry before you sand it. Cover the bar top with your favorite covering that will either complement or match the existing cabinet tops.

About Cabinet Hinges

About Cabinet Hinges

Cabinet hinges serve more than just an aesthetic purpose--they also add strength and durability to a door. This is vitally important, being that cabinet doors are opened and closed so often on a daily basis. Though relatively simple in design, the various types of hinges available will accentuate a room or make it look unappealing, so read on to find out more about cabinet hinges and which ones will look great in your home.

Function

    The main purpose of cabinet hinges is to hold the doors in place. They are designed to make a door easy to operate with a smooth opening and closing motion.

Types

    There are two major types of cabinet door hinges: concealed and wrap hinges. A concealed hinge, also know as European style, is not visible to the naked eye when the cabinet door is closed. Wrap hinges are fastened to the front of the face frame of the cabinet, and they wrap around the sides and the back.
    Inset hinges are used on doors that are recessed into an opening. Partial inset hinges are designed for doors that are only slightly recessed into an opening, and full-inset hinges are used for doors that are flush with the outside of the face frame of the cabinet.
    Self-closing hinges feature a spring-loaded hinge that closes on its own. This action takes place when the door is a certain distance away from the closed position.
    Self-closing and inset hinges can be either concealed or wrap style.

Features

    Hinges can be iron, brass, copper, gold, chrome, nickel, steel or aluminum, with the metallic ones being the most popular choice. Other than metal, the higher grade varieties often have fancier designs to them, and they are also matched up with the rest of the hardware on cabinets, such as the door knobs and handles.
    T-strap hinges are a popular variety for industrial cabinets seen in utility rooms, garages, work benches and tool boxes on job sites. They are are made out of metal and are also relatively cheap.

Identification

    Single demountable hinge.

    A demountable hinge is designed so the door can be easily taken off. They come in single and double demountable. The single demountable only detach from the cabinet door, and the double demountable can detach from the door and the cabinet.

Expert Insight

    When shopping around for the right hinges, price is always an issue. The higher quality hinges are obviously going to be more expensive, but they are often worth the extra money. They have less tendency to get scratched and tarnish over the years, and they are also more durable.

What Is a Fireclay Sink?

Widely used in London, England, for their durability and style in the late 1800s, fireclay sinks finally have made a design comeback. Fireclay sinks are forged at extremely high temperatures, which cause the clay and glaze to unite. The result is a sink that is not only extremely durable, but also will look shiny and new for many years to come.

Significance

    The kitchen is often the central gathering place in many American homes. Between cooking, eating and socializing, countless hours are spent in the kitchen each day.
    Perhaps this is one reason why there is so much emphasis on kitchen remodeling these days. In a flooded housing market, many homeowners are choosing to update and remodel their kitchens to make their home stand apart from the rest.

    How can installing a fireclay sink help to set your house apart from the pack? Fireclay sinks can add a charming touch of ageless elegance to your kitchen. Replacing a standard stainless steel sink with a deep or large, glossy fireclay sink is a great way to create a quality focal point for your kitchen area.

Identification

    Fireclay sinks are named as such, because they are made of clay and they are fired at an intense heat of over 2000 degrees Fahrenheit. This causes the clay to become very hard, producing a durable and nonporous material that is ideally useful as sink material.

    As fireclay sinks have experienced a recent surge in popularity, many retailers have begun to offer fireclay in addition to other standard sink materials. A fireclay sink will be specifically labeled as such, so don't be fooled by imitators.

Styles

    Fireclay sinks are manufactured in a variety of colors and designs, and they come in many different shapes and sizes. One popular style is the vessel-style sink, which is often used in places such as guest bathrooms. Another popular style made of fireclay is called an apron-front or farmhouse sink, which is usually placed in the kitchen area.

Benefits

    Choosing a fireclay sink for your home may be a wise decision if you are a stickler for quality. The integrity of the fireclay material will withstand heavy use over time, and will resist scratching, staining and chipping. Fireclay sinks will not rust, fade or discolor.

Design Trends

    Long ago, fireclay sinks were used for their strong, industrial and practical capabilities. Fireclay sinks have only recently been recognized as a solid design trend. Today, fireclay sinks have become a statement piece for fine homes everywhere.

    Some manufacturers of fireclay sinks still make their sinks completely by hand. When shopping for fireclay sinks, you may notice that some of them feature hand-painted detail or craftsmanship, which may add a display of elegance to the kitchen or bathroom areas.

    The use of sustainable building and design materials is a popular trend in today's interior design scene. Manufacturers of fireclay sinks are becoming dedicated to producing recyclable sinks that also are lead-free. As the demand for earth-friendly materials is on the rise, fireclay sinks are sure to be more than just a passing fad.