If you want to update your kitchen cabinets, but don't have the budget for refacing or a full replacement, wood pickling may be for you. Pickling can brighten up your kitchen and is much simpler than staining or painting.
Instructions
1
Wipe down newer cabinets with a damp sponge to remove any dust. Clean older, previously finished cabinets with Tri-Sodium-Phosphate to remove any accumulated grease or grime. Allow the cabinets to dry completely.
2
Purchase pickling stain or make your own stain by mixing oil-based stain with thinner (about a 3 to 1 ratio of paint to thinner).
3
Apply the stain in even strokes with a natural bristle brush. Allow the stain to sit for about 10 minutes.
4
Use a rag and wipe off the excess stain to even out the finish. Start at the top of the cabinet and wipe in one stroke to the bottom of the cabinet. Do this until you get the look you want. Allow the stain to dry completely.
5
Brush on two coats of sealer to protect the color and seal the wood. Allow for time to dry between each coat.
Architecture is as much of an art as painting, photography, or sculpture. It might focus more on being functional than other art forms, but design and aesthetics are important all the same. One of the great examples of how design meets functionality in architecture is the cornice. This stylistic addition has been around since ancient times and continues to grace buildings to this day.
Identification
A cornice is a horizontal extension of a wall that is usually built on the roof, but sometimes between floors of a building as well. It is usually molded and stylized to act as a decoration for the building.
Function
Besides being part of the architectural design of a building, a cornice is built to throw off or divert rainwater.
Modern Architecture
Cornices are found in older buildings or in new buildings that attempt to recapture old styles. Modern architecture has done away with the cornice and replaced it with elaborate drainage systems.
Classical Architecture
In classical architecture, the cornice was used regularly; it can be seen on temples and famous pieces of architecture, such as the Acropolis.
Naming
The cornice got its name from an Italian word, which happens also to be cornice, meaning "ledge"--a perfect example of what a cornice is.
We all know how to instantly improve your kitchen in a day by replacing those old countertops. Now we have to figure out what surfacing material is going to be right for us. All have advantages and disadvantages, but each company tries to bash each other with outright lies to get your business. I have worked with all types of countertop materials for almost 20 years. I will help you find what materials will best suit your needs.
Instructions
1
Ok we are going to replace your countertops. To narrow down our selection usually price is a major factor in what we choose. We will start with the two most popular choices in countertop material.
2
Formica, I started out fabricating this type of countertops. These can be made a few different ways. Full custom fabricated on either particle board or plywood. Most use particle board with a contact adhesive. Some but rare few shops use plywood and yellow glue. This provide superior performance, but who wants a laminate countertop for the next 50 years? Usually your particle board and contact adhesive top will last your a good 15 years or more. The other type is a post formed countertop where they roll the front edge and can also roll the backsplash in a one piece deck. This leaves a nice clean roll on the edge and splash so no grime collects. These are a nice very cheap option to any other materials. I'm sure this is why laminate is the most popular material for countertops still and probably for a long time to come.
3
Granite, This was the last type of material I learned to work with. I fell in love with the unique patterns and the pure beauty of this materials. This material is anywhere from extremely strong to if you look at it wrong it will break on you. This is where a lot of misinformation comes about on granite. A good granite supplier will tell you the advantages of each type of granite. Some are just a nightmare in the kitchen but looks wonderful. That is fine for some people who don't actually use their kitchens but other than for a show room. Some granite is incredible strong and resistant to staining. Granite will require more maintenance than laminate or solid surface (plasitc) type of material. Sealing every 6 months to 1 year will keep your granite safe from stains. Granite is porous and will suck in stains and bacteria, this is why we seal it, to closes the pours to reduce the stains and bacteria growth. Keeping your surface clean you will have no problems with either.
4
Solid surface, this material is very versatile. You can make a kitchen completely seamless. Bacterial has no place to grow with in this material. Stains are almost impossible on this material as well. If you do stain it or scratch it, simply sanding with a high grit paper will take out any defects. Also if you damage your top, repairs can be made that will be almost invisible to you. This material is around the same price as granite. It also provides a warranty unlike most false warranties granite fabricators offer. The actual material is warrantied and sometimes the installation is also warrantied. Most solid surface companies certify there fabricators. I believe that solid surface fabricators are by far the best fabricators in the countertop industry.
5
Engineered stone, this material is almost in the middle of solid surface and granite. Typically 93% quartz and 7% resin binder, this material is at heart a stone. Its mixed together and formed under a giant press with heat to form slabs like granite. It is then processes just like granite with the surface polished and then distributed to fabricators the same way granite slabs are. The advantage to this material over granite is the uniformity and the strength of the material. There is no fissures or deformities that could cause it to fail. If it happens to fail most manufactures warranty there material.
6
Stainless steel, I believe this material belongs in the restaurants. It has a cold industrial feeling. If you like this then it is the perfect material for you. If its used in a restaurant it has to be be clean, that's why stainless is used, durable and clean.
7
Butcher block, is a nice accent with another type of material. Using this in the whole kitchen is a waste. I am just not a fan of butcher block, but it does work well as a kitchen surface.
8
Tile, I still don't understand why anyone would use this material for a countertop surface. The grout lines promote so much bacterial growth and looks dirty with in the first year. It is a very durable material, the actual tiles are very resistant to staining and bacterial growth but that is negated by the grout. It is an easy do it yourself project, I'm assuming why it is still being used.
Bed frames have been standardized to the benefit of both bed manufacturer and consumer. Nowadays when you mattress wears out and gets lumpy, you need not worry too much if the replacement will fit, for this issue has already been dealt with. However, within the various type of single and bunk beds that are on the market, there is some variation.
Significance
When designing bedrooms in a house, room size might be loosely related to bed size, for more often than not the parents' chamber is built larger than the rest of the bedrooms (and in fact, it is often referred to as the master bedroom). The eventual installation of a double-sized bed is one determining factor in the overall planning stage when you with the aid of an architect or builder are planning the size of each room.
Size
Within the United States, single beds are of one standard size, but there are a few variations that might give a consumer a several options. The standard mattress size for a single bed in the U.S. and Canada is 39 inches by 75 inches. You will find this size most commonly in a private residence. Also available is a longer-size single bed. This bed, which is 39 inches wide, has a little extra length added to push the length to 80 inches. This bed is commonly found in college dormitories and motel rooms to accommodate tall teens and larger adults. The longer version can be purchased for your home, as well. And finally, there is a "Super Single" on the market, a rather large single that is almost the size of a double. This bed measures at 48 inches by 84 inches.
Beds for Children
Single beds for children are usually smaller than the standard adult-sized bed, but not by very much. The dimensions of a narrow single bed are reduced to 36 inches by 75 inches and are readily available through out the U.S. and Canada. For most children and even some small adults, this size of bed will work out just fine. For very young children and small toddlers, you might look into beds that are specially designed with side rails that keep a small one from falling out of bed at night. It is also possible to purchase a shorter bed with guardrails that is specially designed for a young child.
International Sizes
The size of a single bed varies in different parts of the world. This is mostly a fact of curiosity unless you happen to purchase your bedding directly from a foreign country. In that case, you might find the variation to be more than expected. Roughly speaking, single beds in the United States are the largest, and those made in Latin America and Continental Europe are the smallest, where the single bed usually runs at 35 inches by 79 inches. In between are single beds from the U.K. and Australia, which measure at 36 inches by 75 inches.
Bunk Beds
If you are considering placing a bunk bed in a room to save space, you will find that these beds are sized the same as a normal single bed ( 39-by-75), but there is a smaller child's version that is a few inches narrower at 36 inches, with the same length, though. When placing a bunk bed in a bedroom, don't forget that the bed can be as much as 6 feet high, so do not place one under a low ceiling.
While many homes built in the late 19th century are simply called "Victorian," there are actually several different styles of architecture that fall under the broad category of Victorian. The era is named for Queen Victoria, who ruled England from 1837 to 1901. Usually a grand old home with lots of unique details is labeled Victorian. But defining more precise details can further categorize a home into a specific architectural genre.
Victorian Gothic (1860-1890)
The predominant characteristic of a Victorian Gothic home is its multicolored exterior. Multiple colors and textures create decorative bands that highlight arches and corners. Walls often are decorated with geometric patterns. Pointed arch windows and doors usually are associated with Gothic style elements, but the overlay of decorative effects used in the late 19th century classify it as Victorian Gothic.
Italianate
An Italianate house is square with a flat or very slightly pitched roof that is usually topped with a cupola. The roof line extends beyond the exterior walls of the house, creating wide eaves supported by brackets. Most Italianate homes feature a long porch.
Second Empire (1860-1890)
A Second Empire house is easily identified by its mansard roof, a convex or concave second or third story that is part roof, part upper floor. The style also is characterized by heavy pediments over the windows, which are sometimes grouped in pairs. The entrance is usually a set of double doors with upper panels made of glass. Bracketed cornices and decorated chimney caps are also characteristics of Second Empire.
Queen Anne (1880-1900)
Queen Anne architecture is more richly ornamented than any other style. It can best be described as "busy," utilizing many competing decorative techniques. Queen Anne homes are typically what people refer to as "Victorian." The style is characterized by towers, turrets and chimneys and is decorated with many different colors, textures and materials. Fish-scale shingles, eyelid dormers and multiple spires and finials complete the ostentatious display. Many Queen Anne houses also feature sprawling verandas, bay windows and porticos.
Chateau (1860-1890)
The typical Chateau style home is irregular and massive with steeply pitched gable or hip roofs. Dormers, tall decorated chimneys and towers are often seen. Chateau houses frequently incorporate characteristics of other styles, such as Gothic finials and Tudor arches.
Octagon (1850-1860)
The Octagon style focuses on a centrally planned home with a wraparound veranda, cupola and a raised basement. Some Octagon homes featured a domed roof. They are usually less ornamented than other Victorian styles. It was first invented by Orson Fowler, who was ahead of his time in architectural design. The Octagon style is quite rare and is not found in many communities.
There's nothing quite like a custom cabinet designed to illustrate a lifestyle. The basics of cabinet making begin with the differences between kitchen and bathroom cabinetry, which is mainly size. Base, or floor cabinets, in the kitchen are 36 inches tall, and those in the bathroom are 30 inches. The wall cabinets in either room will depend on taste and design.
Instructions
The Table Saw
1
Identifying the parts of a table saw will help you gain confidence while using one. Locate the fence, which is a bar that runs across the top of the table saw perpendicular to the front and will have a flat surface against which the material is placed. Familiarize yourself with the way it fastens into place and loosens so you can move it to the measurement you need.
2
Most table saws will have a bar on the front that the fence clamps to and will have a means for measurement. Even though these measurements are fairly accurate, the cabinet maker should double check it with a measuring tape.
3
Practice feeding wood through the table saw before attempting to cut out parts for cabinets. Once you get a feel for using the table saw, it will become one of the most important tools in basic cabinet making. With it you'll be able to cut out doors and drawer parts, shelves, face fronts, quarter-inch backing material and even molding.
Pneumatic Tools
4
Assembling cabinet parts is a snap with pneumatic tools. Make sure the setting on the air compressor matches the pounds-per-square-inch noted on the tool.
5
Next, pay close attention to the nails or staples required for the tools. In addition, be certain to use the correct length and type of staple or nail required for each step in cabinet making.
6
Place the tip of the pneumatic tool so that you know it will shoot a nail through one piece of your cabinet into another, such as when you attach a shelf to an end panel.
Cabinet Parts
7
Measuring and cutting the end panels is the first step in making cabinets. For the floor cabinets in the kitchen, cut the material 24 inches deep and 35 inches tall. Wall cabinets in the kitchen are 30 inches tall, so the measurement for the end panels will be 30 inches, with a depth of 11 inches. The floor cabinets for the bathroom end panels measure 29 inches tall and are 20 inches deep.
8
Cutting the shelves is another part of basic cabinet making. For the floor cabinets in the kitchen, the basic depth of the shelf is 24 inches, or the same as the end panel. The second shelf in the floor cabinet is either the same as the bottom shelf or half the depth. The sink cabinet does not have a second shelf to allow for the plumbing.
9
Designing the face frames is the most intricate part of basic cabinet making. The frames are built from wood that is 1 inches wide and inches thick. The face frame parts include ends, rails and stiles. The space needed for the height of the doors in kitchen floor cabinets is 21 inches and for the bathroom it is 16 inches. The space for the wall cabinet doors will be whatever the end panel height is, minus 3 inches for the rails. Stiles are used to separate the doors and drawers from each other.
10
The backs for the cabinets are cut from quarter-inch Masonite or plywood. The smooth side of the Masonite will go to the inside of the cabinet.
Hardware
11
Deciding what type of hardware you want to use in cabinet making is the biggest factor in choosing hardware. Hardware includes the hinges for the doors, the rail system for the drawers, adjustable shelf track for the wall cabinets and the knobs and pulls.
12
Installing the drawer hardware is the most difficult task concerning hardware for cabinets. There are several systems to choose from. The most common is the rail system, which includes two rails that attach to the drawer box and two that attach to the cabinet. These rails slide together and give the optimum support for the drawer.
13
Installing knobs and pulls for the doors and the drawers requires drilling holes that match the particular hardware you have chosen. Choices are wide and varied but include one of two options. These options are pulls that require more than one screw to secure it to the door or drawer. Also, find out what size drill bit you need to drill holes for the screws.
The National Agricultural Safety Database (NASD) advises the public to perform yearly maintenance on chimneys in order to prevent house fires. Over time, chimneys can become clogged by built up chemicals and ash, such as creosote. This buildup can prevent smoke from properly venting and, in some cases, even cause a chimney fire. While cleaning your chimney, keep an eye out for structural problems like warping and cracking. Periodically, it is a good idea to have a professional look at your chimney to ensure that it is still safe.
Instructions
1
Check with the manufacturer of your stove to see if there is a specific brand or design of chimney brush that will work best with your model. If not, choose one that is appropriate for the size of your chimney.
2
Open the flue and remove the damper, if your stove model has one.
3
Examine buildup (such as creosote) in order to determine which areas of the chimney will require the most cleaning. Use the flashlight if it is too dark and use the mirror to see around difficult angles. Typically, most of the buildup will be in the top third of the chimney. Keep an eye out for any bird's nests or other obstructions that may have to be removed.
4
Cover the bottom of your chimney with a tarp or plastic sheet. Some stoves allow you to disconnect the stove pipe from the chimney and then cover that opening. Others have a special access door that allows you to collect ashes and debris. Depending on your model, cover whatever opening you must in order to prevent the debris from escaping into your house.
5
Put on protective gear, such as a pair of goggles, a dust mask and gloves. Chimney dust is very irritating to the eyes and respiratory system, and can be difficult to remove from clothing.
6
Use your brush according to the manufacturer's recommendations. Vigorously brush the entire length of the chimney, making sure you spend extra time cleaning the areas that have the most buildup. If the wire brush you are using allows you to, consider adding a weight to the lower end of the brush so that you can push and pull the brush repeatedly.
7
Peel away the tarp after the dust and debris settle. Remove all loosened debris from the bottom of the chimney using a small broom and dustpan. Use the vacuum to remove any remaining dust. You will need to use a vacuum with a filter that can handle chimney dust and debris. Ordinary household vacuums typically cannot.
Modern kitchens made use of solid-surface countertop materials because they are durable and can raise the value of the home. Some of these materials are naturally occurring substances, but there are modern countertop materials that are still man made.
History
Popular materials for countertops once included flimsy materials such as plastic laminates and formica. Hot pots or plates could damage these countertops and leave scorch marks on the counter. These materials also came apart as they aged and often became discolored over time. And because they came in outlandish colors, they tended to become dated quickly. The avocado green formica of the 70s quickly became old fashioned when the brighter colors of the 80s became popular. The classic look of natural materials can help homeowners to avoid this problem.
Function
Natural materials make durable, attractive countertops. These are extremely popular because they hold their value and make a kitchen look updated. When using any of the durable materials that are common in new construction homes today, the countertop can be used without placing a pan on a trivet or using a cutting board. Many of these materials are so tough that hot pans can be placed directly on the countertop and the surface can also be used to chop vegetables.
Types
Granite and marble are extremely popular for kitchen countertops because they are heat resistant and will not scratch. Granite is close to the strength of diamonds and is extremely difficult to chip. Marble is also durable and has a classic look that has never gone out of style. Both granite and marble come in a wide range of colors, making it easy to find one that goes with the colors of a kitchen. Marble and granite countertops also have the advantage of being unique. No one else will have the exact same marble or granite pattern.
Features
For a beautiful countertop that is smooth, durable and shimmery, there is quartz. This rock is available in its natural, mined version as well as a man-made, lab-created version. Because both marble and granite can be porous and prone to oily stains, some people prefer to use quartz for its more less-porous surface. Quartz made in a lab can be made into any color and is less expensive than mined quartz.
Identification
Corian is a man-made countertop surface that is an engineered stone. It is not heat resistant but it does have a better resistance to stains than marble and granite. Corian is made by DuPont by mixing plastics with stone particles. The result is a countertop that retains some of the hardness of stone but that is softer than other solid-surface countertops.
Considerations
Because many solid-surface countertops can be so costly, there are alternatives that can make a kitchen look updated on a lower budget. Tile countertops are generally inexpensive, and a homeowner can install the tile to further save money. Another inexpensive choice is a concrete countertop. Concrete can be made to look like natural stone or tile, and it costs less than either of those options.
Create a custom-sized appliance garage to clean up your kitchen clutter and store those large items that just don't fit in the cupboards. Building it yourself allows you to decide exactly where to put the appliance garage and how large or small to make it.
Instructions
Constructing the Garage
1
Measure the corner to determine how large your appliance garage can be. Consider building your appliance garage large enough to encompass an electrical outlet if there's one nearby.
2
Attach furring strips to the walls to create the framework for your appliance garage. Use brad nails and wood glue to secure the framing together.
3
Build two angled walls to bring your corner appliance garage out to where you want the tambour door to go.
4
Decide how thick your tambour door will be and map out a groove that size on either side of your appliance garage walls.
5
Build your tambour garage door and slide it into the grooves you routed.
6
Trim your appliance garage with molding to match the remainder of your kitchen cabinetry.
Make a Tambour Door
7
Rip the individual slats for your tambour door to the dimensions that will fit your garage.
8
Check each slat and discard any that are curved or warped, as they won't fit properly in the tambour door.
9
Cut a length of strong material, like boating awning, about six inches larger on all sides than your fabric.
10
Spray contact cement on the back side of your tambour door and apply the material to it. Allow it to dry thoroughly before you put the door into the appliance garage.
11
Cut away the excess fabric and glue down any loose edges.
12
Add a handle using brad nails.
13
Slide your tambour door into the grooves you cut in the sides of your appliance garage door and trim with molding to hold it secure.
One of the many jobs a homeowner faces in the upkeep of a home is remodeling the kitchen. Probably the hardest task to tackle in the kitchen is building a kitchen countertop. If you have a little bit of woodworking knowledge, building a kitchen countertop will be easy. You need only follow a few simple step-by-step instructions.
Instructions
Working the Wood
1
Place the piece of 26-by-96-by--inch plywood on a worktable. Next, place the 2 pieces of 2-by-96-by--inch plywood on the same table. Apply glue to one of the 2-inch sides of the 2-inch pieces, then turn them over and line them up with the long edge of the 26-inch wide plywood. Secure the 2-inch strips with the box nails.
2
Place the 2 pieces of 2-by-22-by--inch plywood on the table. Apply glue to the flat side, turn them over and secure them on either end of the 26-inch wide plywood with the box nails.
3
Sand the edges of the plywood with the sand block until they are smooth. Fill any voids in the plywood with wood putty to ensure a solid fill.
4
Place all the pieces of 2-inch wide laminate on the plywood. Apply contact cement to 3 of the edges of the plywood with the paintbrush. Allow this coat to dry completely. Then apply a second coat of contact cement to the wood edge and the first coat to the back of the 2-inch strips of laminate.
5
Stick the long piece of laminate on the plywood first. Next, stick the shorter pieces on the sides, pushing them against the back of the long piece. Be certain that there is a good bond between the laminate and the plywood.
6
Remove the excess laminate from the plywood with a router and laminate cutting bit. Be cautious when approaching the end of the plywood, as the router can get away from you at that point.
7
Sand all the area where the router trimmed the laminate down to the surface of the plywood. Be careful to keep the sanding block level with the surface of the table.
Applying the Laminate Top
8
Clean the top of the plywood as thoroughly as possible before applying contact cement to the plywood. Pour some of the contact cement on top of the plywood and in the roller pan.
9
Roll out the contact cement that you poured on the plywood with the roller. Be certain that you spread contact cement all the way to the edges of the counter top.
10
Allow the contact cement to dry completely. Place the 28-inch wide laminate upside down on another table. Apply a second coat of contact cement to plywood. Also apply contact cement to the back of the laminate.
11
Place the -by--by-30-inch lumber on top of the plywood once the contact cement is tacky dry. Space them out evenly.
12
Place the piece of laminate on top of the lumber on top of the plywood. Be careful not to allow the laminate to make contact with the plywood.
13
Begin pulling the sticks out from the center and work your way towards the ends. Rub your hands over the surface of the laminate to eliminate air bubbles as you go.
14
Route the excess laminate off with the router and the laminate cutting bit. File down sharp edges to prevent injury. Clean excess contact cement with Naptha and a clean cloth.
A claw-foot bathtub adds antique charm to a home -- but can be very expensive. An inexpensive alternative is to buy an old painted one and restore it yourself. Rusty, unrestored tubs can be found in antique stores or at estate sales. Although you can get claw-foot tubs professionally restored, doing it yourself can save you hundreds of dollars. If restored properly, your tub's surface could last 15 to 20 years. Both painted and porcelain claw-foot tubs where produced; a porcelain tub requires liquid porcelain to refinish, something best left to professionals.
Instructions
1
Prepare the area you will be working in and yourself to safely restore the bathtub. Set up an exhaust fan to blow fumes to the outside and wear rubber gloves and safety goggles. Work in the garage or someplace with good ventilation.
2
Use the sandpaper and scrub down the surface of the tub, removing any buildup of old soap or rust. Remove as much old paint with the sandpaper as you can.
3
Apply an alkaline emulsifier to strip any remaining paint on the tub. When finished, scrub the tub with an acid-based, citrus cleanser to stop the emulsifier. Allow the citrus cleaner to sit on the tub for five minutes. Wash the tub clean with water and allow it to dry before continuing.
4
Use filler putty to patch up damaged areas near the drain or around the tub. Allow about 30 minutes for this to dry. Sand down the putty when dry then wipe out the dust.
5
Apply the bonding agent to the tub. Spread 2 to 3 oz. on a paper towel and apply it to the surfaces you plan to paint. Give the bonding agent five minutes to dry.
6
Paint your tub with EP-acrylic paint, an acrylic polymer coating that produces a tough, lost-lasting finish. You can use a sprayer to paintbrush to apply it. Apply a base coat, allow it to dry, then add a top coat. It will take up to two days to fully dry. Use ultrafine sandpaper to buff down any imperfect areas.
Pegboards are useful additions to any home. With them, you can hang tools, kitchen supplies or even creatively hang office supplies with them. Hanging a pegboard doesn't have to be difficult, but it does have to be done right to support all of the equipment it will hold.
Instructions
1
Measure the area where you will place your pegboard with a tape measure.
2
Choose the right pegboard size accordingly, and mark and cut it yourself using a jigsaw or hand saw, or ask a hardware store employee if they will cut it for you.
3
Cut out four pieces of 1x2 board, two the desired width of your pegboard and two the desired length of your pegboard.
4
Take your drill and screws, and screw the four pieces of pegboard you cut in Step 3 into a frame shape on your wall.
5
Line up your pegboard with the frame you created. You may need the help of a friend to keep it steady.
6
Use your drill to screw in the pegboard at about 15-inch intervals.
Here's a great way to save money AND add style & function to your kitchen.
Use a stainless steel kitchen cabinet handle as a hanging kitchen utensil rack.
Basically all you need is an appropriate handle and some hooks.
Instructions
1
Of course we'll start out with the handle. Choose a straight long handle like the one I used, seen here. I got mine on eBay for a steal but you can find them other places, too. Ikea has them at a good price...
It should come with the mounting hardware necessary to install it.
2
Pick up some hooks. You can find them at your local home improvement store or hardware store such as Lowe's, Home Depot, or Ace hardware. Wal-Mart might even have some. I've chosen several kinds so that all my utensils hang more evenly. I also chose all the same style utensils for a consistent look.
3
Drill through the bottom of your upper cabinet to install the handle. This way no one has to worry about ruining their backsplash.
Here you can see my handle from the underside of the cabinet.
Your island bamboo cutting-board countertop needs regular maintenance to prevent staining and warping. Before installation it should have been coated on both sides with tung oil, mineral oil or sealed with polyurethane or varnish. Tung oil is the finish of choice, with regular maintenance with mineral oil. Once your bamboo island cutting board is installed, follow these tips to maintain that beautiful finish.
Use a Cutting Board
Use a separate cutting board on top of your bamboo countertop to prevent deep cuts and bacterial contamination. A separate cutting board is easier to wash thoroughly and sanitize to prevent bacterial contamination. Chopping directly on your bamboo island countertop will scar the surface and allow bacteria to grow in the cuts.
Rub with Mineral Oil
Maintain the surface of your bamboo cutting board by rubbing it regularly with food-grade mineral oil. You can purchase special oils for this, but mineral oil is cheap and is recommended by most bamboo countertop makers. The mineral oil should be applied daily for the first week on a new countertop, then once a week during the first month, and then once a month or whenever the surface appears dry and dull. Coat all sides, top and bottom of the bamboo island surface evenly with food-grade mineral oil. Mineral oil will prevent the bamboo from absorbing too much moisture and warping or delaminating.
Prevent Standing Water
Allowing water to stand on your bamboo cutting-board surface is not recommended. Sponge it off with soapy water to clean it. Disinfect it, if needed, with diluted bleach water. Dry it off immediately, and keep it dry when not in use. The mineral-oil finish will repel water, but it will not prevent water from soaking into the surface if it is left wet for a long period of time. Excess moisture will cause the surface to warp.
Innovation is the answer to kitchen cabinet space--almost every square inch is being used. Blind-corner cabinets may still be called just that, but it's not because the space isn't being used. Pull-out shelving and Lazy Susans are being used to gain every bit of storage space available.
Expert Insight
Cabinets are the center of attention in the kitchen. If you're in the market for new ones, peruse the different models available in stores. Watch out for the material used to create the "shell" of the cabinet. The fronts, doors and drawers can be made of hardwood, but if the shell is made of material less than a half-inch thick, it won't last.
Benefits
The Lazy Susan and its variations can be especially beneficial. These can either attach to the back of a specially made door or sit inside the cabinet on a swivel to give access to the recesses created by corners. Variations of this theme include staggering shelves and baskets to hold items that just don't fit well on a shelf. Shop wisely as these benefits can be costly.
Effects
There are many possibilities in making the most of kitchen cabinets. One choice available is rich-colored wood. Exotic wood is available in most places, and some of the more expensive wood may have to be ordered. Add lighting and wall colors to the rich wood and you create an effect that will prompt compliments from friends and neighbors. Another way to add effect to kitchen cabinets is to run fluorescent lighting on the bottom side of the wall cabinets.
Type
As with anything necessary for living, kitchen cabinets come in various types and designs. Because of the demand, and the overworked imagination of others, there is practically no end to the combination that can be ordered to make your kitchen both beautiful and versatile. Raised panels on the doors and drawers, cabinet hardware from drawer systems to knobs and pulls, and arched tops are some of the options when deciding on the type of cabinets you want to put in your kitchen.
Misconceptions
One common misconception about cabinet installation is that all you need is a level tool, stepladder and variable-speed drill. While these are necessary for securing something to the wall, other tools are needed to help you get to the point where you can secure them to the wall. One tool that is not readily thought of is a short bar clamp, which is used to hold the face frames together while securing the cabinets to each other. Using bar clamps requires the removal of doors or drawers.
Totally replacing your kitchen cabinets can become quite expensive. Often, it isn't even necessary. Some paint can completely change the look of the cabinets and make them appear fresh and new. You can spray-paint them yourself and save on labor--an excellent option if you are trying to fix up your home and you are on a budget.
Instructions
1
Empty out your cabinets and give them a cleaning. You don't want to spray-paint over dirt.
2
Take off the cabinet doors. This job is easy, but tedious if you have a lot of cabinets.
3
Remove the hinges from the cabinets and set them aside.
4
Unscrew the cabinets from the wall. You will need a helper for this job. Someone can hold up the cabinet until all of the screws have been undone. Then move on to the next one.
5
Sand your cabinets and doors. Use a medium-grit sander and get all the lacquer off. Once you finish, go over them again with a fine-grit sander. They will then be smooth and ready for painting.
6
Lay a drop cloth outside and prop up your kitchen cabinet doors with some pieces of wood.
7
Shake your spray-paint can well, then hold it about 1 foot away from the cabinet doors and start spraying. Spray from left to right to keep your strokes even. After the first coat is finished, wait for it to dry.
8
Spray-paint the cabinets next the same way you painted the doors. You don't need to worry about the back, because it will be up against the wall.
9
Add a second coat when the first coat is dry.
10
Add a coat of lacquer when the last coat of paint is dry. This will protect the paint. (You can buy lacquer in spray-paint form at your local hardware store.)
Grout is a man-made mixture of sand, cement and water. In most cases, grout comes in a powder and has to be mixed with water. Since it is a concrete product, it is porous. This means it will take special effort to maintain its function. Grout is installed between tiles to give the tile the look of a solid surface. If properly sealed and maintained, grout will not only play a fashion role, but a practical one as well.
Function
The main function of grout is to help hold tiles in place and to seal the space between them. It also acts as a picture frame around the tile, which means its function is to compliment the color and make of the ceramic tile. Its function is greatly reduced if not mixed or applied correctly. Never assume that all grout is the same. Read the manufacturer's instructions on mixing ratio and the grout should go on smooth and cure to provide the needed function.
Types
There are only two types of grout, but they each come in a variety of colors and uses. Sanded grout is used on floors and other places where ceramic tile can be applied. The choice of colors is vast, and with a little ingenuity, can even be transformed into a custom color. Application of sanded grout is the same as unsanded, but the use of unsanded grout is more commonly used with glass tile. Since sand can scratch glass, the grout used for glass tiles cannot have sand in it.
Expert Insight
Grout is a simple product. When choosing grout for tiles on high traffic areas, most will go with a dark color to hide stains that cannot be avoided. However, there is stain-proof grout. Epoxy grout is just what its name implies. Instead of cement, its adhering ability comes from epoxy. This grout sets up really fast and can give the novice a bit of trouble. It is recommended that you practice with it before attempting a project. The more you know about epoxy grout, the less frustration you will encounter.
Features
Any porous material is changeable. This character of grout is both good and bad. It is good because it can be painted. It is not so good because it stains easily. When choosing the grout for your project, you will find that it already comes in many shades and colors. White colored grout is used in many bathrooms. Because of the moisture inherent in bathrooms, there is a constant battle to keep mildew from forming on the grout. Painting the grout will give it that brand new look again.
Effects
Pretty grout lines have a definite effect on the tile and the room where the tile is located. Other uses for grout expand the effects that are possible with grout. Home dcor is one such use. For example, small tiles can be glued to the vase that holds a candle to give it a custom made effect, and also change the effect of the room where the candle is used. In the greenhouse, tabletops can be tiled and custom colored grout gives the outdoors effect.
The cost of Trex decking can vary, with most prices averaging twice the amount of pressure-treated wood. However, Trex is also a composite material that requires very little maintenance once it has been installed. Since pressure-treated wood decking requires staining and sealing on a yearly basis, the Trex decking may be the more cost-effective over time. Still, those consumers who are focused on a lower up front installation cost, may prefer to opt for the pressure-treated wood decking and worry about maintenance charges later.
Warranty
Pressure-treated wood decking usually carries no warranty other than the one that is offered by the installation company, but composite decking commonly includes a warranty from the manufacturer itself. In fact, companies that manufacture composite decking, boast of its durability and resistance to warping and rotting. Therefore, company's like the manufacturer of Trex, cover their building materials for periods of approximately twenty-five years from the date of purchase. However, Trex is only one of several manufacturers' of composite decking materials, so warranties will vary by company.
Safety
Trex decking offers a skidproof surface that will decrease the likelihood of injuries due to slips and falls after heavy rain or around the pool area. Unfortunately, the same can not be said for pressure-treated wood decking. Yet another advantage that Trex has over pressure-treated wood is that it won't break, split, or splinter. Homeowners will not have to worry about painful injuries while walking barefoot during the summer months.
Environmental Factors
For those who are concerned about environmental issues such as, the number of trees that are harvested for construction purposes, including the manufacture of pressure-treated wood decking materials, Trex may be a satisfying alternative. Comprised of fifty percent recycled materials, which include the use of plastic bags and leftover sawdust, Trex decking offers the look of real wood, with a less harmful effect on the environment.
One of first things you need to know before building a laminate countertop are the common dimensions for countertops. For example, kitchen countertops are 26 inches deep while bathroom countertops are only 22 inches deep. You'll need to know how to use a table saw, skill saw, and a router with a laminate cutting bit. Also, since laminate countertops will require contact cement it is recommended that the area you are working in be well ventilated. While building counter tops might look a little difficult, with the proper research and the proper tools the do it yourself homeowner can perform this task.
Instructions
1
Measure the length of the countertop that you are building and record your findings. Set the table saw fence to 26 inches. Rip as many pieces as it takes to cover the entire length of your countertop.
2
Set the table saw fence at 1 inches. Rip as many pieces as you need to cover the entire perimeter of the countertop. For example, if the length of the countertop is 96 inches, then you'll need to cut a minimum of 20 feet.
3
Turn the countertop material over where the bottom side is facing up. Measure and cut the 1 -inch strips so that it covers the entire perimeter of the countertop material. Run a bead of glue around the perimeter of the countertop and place the 1 -inch strips on top of the glue and secure them with the 3d box nails. Be certain that the edges are even.
4
Set the table saw fence at 2 inches and rip enough of the laminate to cover the edges of the countertop that will be exposed once it is installed. Glue the short pieces to the front edges of the countertop first. Cut the excess off using the router and the laminate cutting bit. Sand the edges with a sanding block.
5
Glue the longer pieces onto the edges of the countertop. Cut the excess off using the router with the laminate cutting bit and sand the edges with a sanding block. Turn the countertop over so that the top is facing up.
6
Apply glue to the bottom side of the laminate material and set aside. Apply glue to the top side of the countertop and let it dry. Next, apply a second coat of glue as needed on either the wood countertop or the bottom of the laminate material.
7
After the contact cement gets tacky, lay the -by--inch wood strips on top of the countertop so that you can lay the laminate material on it without it adhering to the countertop itself. After you are certain that the whole top area is covered begin removing the sticks one-by-one until they are all removed. Trim the excess off using the router with the laminate cutting bit and file the edges to take the sharp edge off of the laminate material.
Installing a new sink is quick and easy and can make a huge difference in your kitchen's appearance. It may also be an excellent time to add other elements to your sink, like a garbage disposal or under-the-counter water filter. The following steps are generally how to do it, but make sure you follow any guidelines laid out in the sink manufacturer's directions.
Instructions
1
Prepare the hole in which the basin will sit. If you are replacing a sink and the hole is already there, make sure to clean the area around the hole. Scrape off any leftover caulk, and make sure the surface is clean and dry. If it is a new countertop, cut the hole. Most new sinks come with a template that can be used to mark the area you need to cut out. If there is no template, lay the sink upside down on your counter. Trace a line around the outside. Draw another line inside your first that corresponds to the amount of space you need for the lip of the sink. This inside line is your cut line.
2
Drill holes in all four corners on the inside of the cut line. The holes should be big enough that the blade for the jigsaw will fit inside. With your jigsaw, make a cut along the top and bottom of the hole. To keep the counter from cracking loose and falling as you cut out the rest of hole, screw a scrap piece of wood across the bottom of the counter, making sure it sticks over the cut by a couple of inches. Cut out the rest of the counter, making sure you cut on the inside of the line. Make sure you get the corners correct, without going outside the line. Once you are finished, you can pull out the countertop and remove the scrap wood.
3
Dry-fit the faucet and drains into the hole to make sure everything fits the way it should. When you are sure your sink is going to fit and the lip comes into contact with the counter all the way around, you can move to the next step.
4
Attach the faucet and any other accessories you are adding. It is much easier to attach your faucet and drains when you can see what you are doing as opposed to climbing under the sink to attach everything. Your faucet and attachments should come with instructions, which you should follow.
5
Place your sink, upside down, over the hole. Line the lip of the sink with your silicone caulk or plumber's putty, making sure the coverage is even all the way around the lip. Flip the sink over and seat it in the hole, pushing down gently. Crawl under the sink and attach any mounting brackets. Go ahead and snug them up. You will probably find that there is excess caulk that has been squeezed out from under the lip. Remove this with a clean, damp cloth.
6
Attach your drain and water supply lines. Turn on the supply lines and remove the aerator from the end of the faucet. Turn the water on, allow it to run for a minute or so, turn it off and then reattach your aerator. Make sure nothing is leaking and that you have a good seal for the drain. And that's it; you now have a beautiful sink and faucet, ready for use.
Granite counters are popular in kitchens. They provide a unique, uniform surface that's clear of grout lines, and relatively easy to keep clean. Granite counters can maintain a new appearance for years if cared for properly.
Sealer
Seal granite counters after installation to prevent stains and maintain a uniformly shiny appearance. Re-seal the counter every year or two to extend its life and keep looking as good as new. A granite sealer can be found at most hardware stores or from a granite installer/distributor.
Cleaning
It is best to clean granite counters with a granite cleaner, which can be purchased at most hardware stores. However, alternate cleaning methods are used as well. Martha Stewart uses Windex and towels to clean her countertops. Dishsoap and a sponge are also fine to use. Dry the counters with a soft cloth after cleaning.
Stain Removal
While granite is very hard and scratch resistant, it can stain. When spills occur, wipe them up immediately. Red wine stains will clearly show up more on light granite than a darker granite, and should be blotted up before they penetrate into the stone. Clean greasy, oil-based spills with hydrogen peroxide or an ammonia-based cleaner and paint thinner. Bleach-based cleaners or acetone-based cleaners are recommended for ink and wine stains. Whatever the stain, the sooner it is dealt with the better. If cared for and cleaned properly, granite countertops are a beautiful, unique addition to any kitchen.
Feng shui is an ancient Chinese philosophy which, amongst other things, teaches you how to utilize the arrangement of your home furniture, the images on the walls, and the ambiance of a room to bring more balance, health and abundance to the occupant. It asks you to look at objects, the way something comes across or feels, as well as the position and quality of how the furnishings and fixtures relate to the overall space. It is simple to take an indoor water fountain and use feng shui to assist you to manifest good things in your life--well beyond just the beauteous sound of running water.
Instructions
1
Install the indoor water fountain. While the sound of running water can be a soothing, healing resonance anywhere, it is recommended to have your particular fountain, whether it is tabletop or standing, in the front room by the architect's intended front door. It makes no difference whether you use this door or not, it is still, in Feng Shui terms, one of the most auspicious areas in your dwelling.
2
Prepare to activate the water fountain using the Three Secrets Reinforcement Ritual of Intention. Feng Shui is about using the language of symbols, the subconscious mind, and the power of intention to solve problems and manifest your life dreams. Water has a potent representation in Feng Shui. It stands for abundance. A water fountain insinuates that abundance is always coming into your space and your life. Once you program this truth, that is. The ritual is simple: placement of object, visualization, and then say an affirmation. You placed the object when you decided where to put the water fountain. For a short moment, focus on the water fountain.
3
Visualize "It" already occurring. In Feng Shui, you prepare as if it has already happened. Since the water fountain stands for "abundance always coming in"--imagine abundance coming to you in all ways. Iit doesn't matter if you only see black when you shut your eyes--the key here is having a vivid mind's eye. See yourself with your arms up receiving money as dollar bills fall from the sky; see yourself holding hands with an equal soul-mate (the wealth of love); see yourself vital and happy (the prosperity of health) and so on.
4
Say out loud what you are manifesting in your life. "Now everyday, abundance comes to me in all ways." Say your affirmation in the now and present tense. It is guaranteed that you will never look at your indoor water fountain in the same way after you do this compelling procedure.
Pergo flooring is a great alternative to actual wood, and, although it is fairly easy to keep up, it still requires regular care and maintenance. It's important to keep in mind that just as water can permanently damage wood flooring, plain water--which won't do any permanent damage to Pergo floors--can make the floor look dull and hazy. So an alternate method is needed for actual cleaning. Taking preventative steps and providing a little bit of regular maintenance will allow Pergo flooring to keep a shiny, clean look for years.
Instructions
1
Keep protective mats at entrances at all times. Also use a mat or throw rug in front of the sink. These mats will protect the floor from grit being brought in from outside and from grease, water and other spills around the sink.
2
Mop the floor regularly with a dust mop. The biggest damage to a floor comes from dust and grit, and dust mopping will help protect the finish.
3
Mix 1 cup of distilled white vinegar with a gallon of water. There are products made especially for the purpose of cleaning laminate floors, but they are expensive and don't work any better than vinegar and water.
4
Dampen a cotton wet mop with the vinegar and water solution and wring out till it is just damp with no water dripping from the mop.
5
Mop the floor using the damp mop. It is best to do the entire floor each time. If you need to do some spot cleaning, mix vinegar and water at the same ratio as in Step 3 in a trigger-spray bottle, spray the spot, and wipe clean with a soft cloth.
LED light tubes are popular replacements for the long, fluorescent light tubes, as they can last much longer and don't contain toxic mercury. Most of these tubes are designed to simply fit into the fluorescent light fixtures you already have; you can just remove the fluorescents, install the LEDs and you're done. Some LEDs, however, will work better if you remove the ballasts within the light fixtures that work with the fluorescents. This requires a slight bit of electrical work to replace the bulbs.
Instructions
1
Consult with the vendor that you get the LED tubes if you need to remove the ballasts in your light fixtures. Some LEDs can still work with the ballasts of fluorescent fixtures, but might still might cause problems with the amount of power consumed.
2
Make sure the light switch has been off for at least 30 minutes to an hour. Detach and remove the acrylic (or other type material) shielding covering the fluorescent bulbs if you use such a cover.
3
Disconnect the bulbs and store them away safely. Do not throw them away or place them somewhere that they might break.
4
Open the panels to the ballasts on the light fixture. Twist the metal tabs on the edges of each panel to remove them.
5
Locate the ballast and disconnect it from the wires at both ends by removing the wire nuts or cutting the wires. Pay attention to how the wires are lined up before you cut them.
6
Connect the wires on both sides together by stripping an inch off the insulation, twisting the bare wire together and wrapping it in electrical tape. You must connect each wire to the one that was directly opposite it on the other side of the ballast. If the red and black wires looked like they were connected through the ballast, connect them now.
7
Install the LED light tubes in place of the fluorescents in the fixtures. Close up the ballast panels and replace the acrylic cover. Turn the lights on to test them.
Give your cabinets that finished look by installing a toe kick. Some manufacturers make a finished matching toe kick for their cabinets, but if yours didn't, you can use plywood and paint or stain it to match the cabinets.
Instructions
1
Measure the height and length of toe kick that you need. If the toe kick came with the cabinets, you will only need the length measurement.
2
Cut the toe kick to the measurements. You should cut the height 1/8 inch smaller than your measurement so you can fit the piece. Get a straight, clean cut on the butt ends if you have to piece them together for length.
3
Paint or stain the toe kick to match the cabinets. If you are staining, apply a good wood sealer to prevent moisture damage.
4
Screw the toe kick into the cabinet base and countersink the screws.
5
Fill in holes and any gaps at joints with a paintable wood putty or a matching stain color putty.
6
Touch up with paint on the putty and the ends of the boards. If you used stain, put a little stain on a rag and touch up areas that were cut and go over with putty.
Once any urethane adhesive has cured, it is extremely difficult to remove without damaging the surface beneath or whatever it encapsulates. It is important that if you spill urethane adhesive that you remove excess as quickly as possible before it completely dries. Here are a few things you can do to remove urethane from places you don't want it to be.
Instructions
Urethane Removers
1
Apply either a specific urethane adhesive remover solution, mineral spirits or methyline chloride to the adhesive.
2
Make certain you totally cover all of the adhesive you are removing. Protect surrounding areas from spills and splashes to prevent places becoming unglued that you don't want to come unglued.
3
Allow the solution to sit for 15 minutes and soften the dried adhesive.
4
Wipe the spot with a soft cloth to remove loosened adhesive. If the adhesive is not completely removed, repeat.
5
Gently work loose any remaining adhesive with a putty knife or flat scraper. Be careful not to damage the surface underneath. Wipe off the area with a cloth and warm water.
For More Durable Surfaces
6
Heat the adhesive with a propane torch until it softens. This way works best on metal and concrete, but cannot be done if the surface beneath the glue is fragile.
7
Insert a chisel or sharp faced tool to chip away the urethane once its temperature has been raised above the softening point.
8
Gently wipe down the area with a warm wet cloth to remove any loose residue.
Interior design and interior decorating are two separate professions that often overlap. Both are concerned with creating rooms that are functional and aesthetically pleasing. Interior designers and interior decorators must be well-versed in the principles and elements of good design, and must understand how to apply these concepts to meet the needs of clients. But while one understands the underlying structure of architecture, the other is concerned with elements of decoration.
Function
The difference between designing a room and decorating a room is influenced by function and by intent. To design a room is to consider factors such as the size of door and window openings, the placement of electrical outlets and closets, and the types of furnishings needed to meet the needs of the occupants. The design of a room is influenced by local codes, architecture and ways the room will be used. To decorate a room is to create a color palette, choose fabrics and furnishings, plan furniture arrangement and choose accessories for the space. It is no less difficult than designing a room; it is just a different step necessary to reaching the final goal of a comfortable and functional space.
Types
Interior designers are concerned with ergonomics, the relationships between humans and furniture and associated products. There are interior designers who specialize in designs for special-needs populations, senior citizens, schools and other areas in which particular needs must be met. But ergonomics are not confined to select groups. The application of ergonomics is used in all aspects of interior design. The interior decorator is less concerned with ergonomics and more concerned with aesthetic appeal of furnishings and the overall space. Decorators may specialize in single elements of decor such as color application, furniture arrangement or fabric selection. Interior decorators, however, usually are hired to redecorate an entire space, and so they must be well-versed in all the elements and principles of design.
Identification
The two professions often overlap. Interior designers are hired for redecorating projects; in this both professions share the same duties. But an interior decorator would be an inappropriate choice for a remodel or new home project. Often, architects collaborate with interior designers with whom they have working relationships. This ensures that any room design will be functional and compatible with the architecture. Interior designers in most states are required to be licensed by the National Council of Interior Design Qualification (NCIDQ). They are often members of the American Society of Interior Designers (ASID). To achieve membership and be licensed, an interior designer has attended an accredited school and obtained a degree and continues his education to maintain the license. An interior decorator need not be licensed, nor is she required to have a degree. Because the duties of an interior decorator do not involve the infrastructure of the building or residence, there is no need for licensing. There is, however, an organization that provides certification for decorators. Interior designer Ron Renner founded the Certified Interior Decorators International (CID) in 1997. Members have completed a certified program from an accredited school.
Significance
Both professions are experiencing an increase in job demand. Changes in how people live, from the need for home offices to homes that can be reconfigured for life changes, have created a need for specialists in design and decorating. People who work at home need their homes to provide appropriate space and appeal for the situation. People with extended families have specific needs for room function and traffic flow. Couples whose children are grown want their homes to reflect the change in lifestyle. For all of these reasons and more, designers and decorators are in demand.
Benefits
The cost of hiring an interior designer or a decorator may seem prohibitive for those on a tight budget. A high-end interior designer can charge as much as $300 an hour or more. But not all designers charge such high fees, and decorators can be an affordable alternative. The benefits of expert advice are many. Those with busy lifestyles who simply don't have time to plan, shop, select and oversee a large-scale home improvement project will ultimately profit from hiring an expert. Mistakes and delays are on the designer, not the client. Hiring an interior decorator to aid in a more scaled-down makeover also reduces costly mistakes. Usually less-expensive than a designer, a decorator can be hired for a one-time consultation or to oversee the project. In either profession, clients often have the option to choose from a variety of offered services. This can make their services more affordable for homeowners.
Are you planning to perform a small kitchen remodel in your home? If so, you may find yourself somewhat overwhelmed with all the little details and things to consider before you actually begin the renovation. What if you make the wrong choice? When this much money is involved, you want to make sure you do things right the first time. With a little thought and planning, you can avoid most pitfalls when the time comes. By keeping these things in mind as you plan your small kitchen remodel, you can ensure that the result is functional, elegant, and satisfying.
Instructions
1
Make your available space multitask whenever possible. If there is anything that can be hung, combined, or made to fit in a smaller space, choose that model instead. Fit cabinets against the ceiling to double the use of that space. Instead of a standalone oven, include an in-wall oven in your small kitchen remodel. For the stove, use a cooktop that can be fitted over cabinets. Use a microwave that doubles as a toaster oven. Never use two items when one can perform both jobs just as well.
2
Choose compact versions of appliances and accessories whenever possible. Use a slide out cutting board to conserve space. Use a more compact, slim model refrigerator or baker's rack. Instead of using a rolling dishwasher that can be moved around, consider a model that can be mounted under a cabinet.
3
Ensure that you have enough storage. When doing a small kitchen remodel, remember that space is extremely limited. By having sufficient cabinet, drawer, and closet space, you can remove a great deal of clutter from your work area. Store your infrequently used items and small appliances to conserve space.
4
Make sure you have enough light. Bright light can make a small space seem larger, and good light is useful when cooking. Consider overhead panel lighting, as well as a few lights hanging beneath the cabinets to create small areas of direct light for detailed work.
You can find a variety of wine glass racks in stores, but due to the varying shapes and sizes of many glasses today, it can be difficult to find the perfect rack. Putting together your own rack is relatively quick and easy. This will allow you to create the perfect display for your individual collection of stemware.
Instructions
Measuring Your Supplies
1
Count and measure your wine glasses. You will need to know the width of the base of the glass, the stem of the glass and the cup at the widest place.
2
Measure various wire glass racks. These can be found at most hardware stores as well as online. You will need to make sure that the stem of the glass will fit in the rack, and that the base of the glass is wide enough to keep it from falling.
3
Calculate how many glasses will fit in each rack. Allow for at least half an inch between glasses to ensure that they will not fall.
4
Calculate how large the base of your rack needs to be. This will depend on how long your wire rack is, and how many racks you will need to accommodate all of your glasses.
5
Determine how many screws you will need. Depending on the style of wire rack you choose, you may need two or four screws per rack. You will also need screws to attach the bracket to the shelf and to the wall.
Building Your Wine Glass Rack
6
Paint your shelf. The glass racks will be attached to the underside of this shelf. The top will be free for other items. Select a color that complements your home decor.
7
Prime the brackets. You may want to select decorative brackets to attach your shelf to the wall.
8
Paint the brackets. You may want to select a complementary color to that of the shelf, or you may choose to have them match.
9
Affix the wire racks to the underside of the shelf. Measure carefully as you do so to ensure that your glasses will not be too close, and will fit comfortably in the rack.
10
Attach the brackets to each end of the shelf.
11
Find a stud in the wall, and hang your wine glass rack using the brackets.
A rat infestation can cause serious damage to your home, as well as a health risk to your family. There are measures you can take to reduce the risk of inviting rodents into your home and limit their effect if they do get inside.
Identification
There are two major types of rat in the United States. The Norway rat is a large, stocky rodent with a grayish belly, blunt muzzle, short ears and a tail that is shorter than its body. It usually lives in the basement or ground floor. The roof rat, also known as the black rat, is a smaller, sleeker animal with a gray to white belly. Its tail is longer than its body, it has a pointed muzzle, and its ears are longer than those of the Norway rat. It usually nests in attics, walls, cabinets and other elevated or enclosed spaces.
Sanitation/Rat-Proofing
Sanitation is essential to eliminating a rat infestation. Remove garbage and debris regularly and keep garbage in containers with tight-fitting lids. Feed your pets only what they will eat in one meal and store pet food in rodent-proof containers. You can also take steps to rodent-proof your home. Build a tight-fitting cover for the crawl space under the house; seal all openings around pipes, cables, and wires that enter the house through a wall or the foundation. Keep your window screens in good repair and install screens over your dryer vents. Cover rooftop plumbing vents with screens if they are more than 2 inches in diameter.
Control
If you have found evidence of rats inside your house, the best method of control is trapping. Rat bait is not recommended, as a baited rat may get inside a wall and die, causing a foul stench. You also risk your pet or a child getting into the bait with tragic consequences. Bait your rat traps with nuts or dried fruit and fasten the bait securely to the trigger with thread or fine wire. Do not use soft baits like peanut butter, as the rats can take it without triggering the trap. You can make it easier to catch rats by leaving the trap unset long enough for the bait to be taken once or twice; this gets the rats accustomed to the trap and increases the likelihood of catching them when you do set it.
Norway Rats
Trap locations will depend on the type of rat you are having trouble with. To catch Norway rats, set the traps close and at right angles to walls, with the trigger end nearly touching the wall. Other good places to trap Norway rats are behind objects, in dark corners and anywhere you've seen droppings or other signs of the rats' presence.
Roof Rats
To catch roof rats, set traps in off-ground locations; if possible, set them along the routes between the rats' nests and food source. Ledges, shelves and pipes are good locations for trapping roof rats. You may need to fasten the traps down with screws or wire in some of these areas.
When a kitchen needs an update, the cabinets are usually the first to show it. Many do-it-yourself individuals, who are looking to save money with kitchen updating or redecorating, choose resurfacing cabinets over replacing them. Resurfacing kitchen cabinets involves stripping old paint or varnish and refinishing them with fresh paint or stain, replacing hardware and knobs and adding decorative molding or laminate panels.
Choosing Resurfacing Methods
As with any redecorating project that involves wood, care should be taken to find out what type of wood the cabinets are made of before choosing a resurfacing method. Many older homes have hardwoods--cherry, maple and oak--hidden beneath years of varnish and paint and require little more than a new finish to bring out the natural wood. Adversely, some kitchen cabinets, thought to be solid wood, reveal pressed wood or superficial veneers that do better with fresh veneers, paint or laminate panels.
Preparation
Before getting started resurfacing kitchen cabinets, old paint and varnish should be removed with commercial paint and varnish removers. Old hardware and hinges need to be removed and in the case of hardwoods, sanding is usually needed to smooth the cabinet surface and bring out natural wood grains.
Paint and Varnish
To bring out the color and beauty of natural wood, a few coats of varnish, stain and clear-coat polyurethane on prepared wood is all that's needed. For individualized colors or kitchen cabinets with a pressed wood or veneer panel finish, painting is more effective. For individuals finishing wood cabinets themselves, care must be taken to make sure the wood is stripped, sanded and prepared for resurfacing.
Cabinet Veneers and Laminates
Covering old kitchen cabinets with plastic laminate or veneers is an easy and cost-effective way to resurface the cabinets and change the look of a kitchen without repainting or refinishing the wood. Laminate panels can be custom cut and installed by professional contractors for a fraction of the cost of replacing kitchen cabinets. Many do-it-yourself enthusiasts find that installing veneer panels is the easiest method of resurfacing them. The panels come in a wide range of colors and faux wood finishes and are attached to existing cabinets with special adhesives.
Hardware and Knobs
New cabinet hardware, hinges and knobs will not only update kitchen cabinets, but can extend the life of them, too. Hinges should be removed before starting the project and if they are going to be reused on the resurfaced cabinets, cleaned thoroughly. New knobs or handles can help dictate the style of kitchen on newly resurfaced cabinets. Antique bronze knobs and pulls can be used for a classical approach, while tinted or painted pulls offer color coordination for a more modern kitchen.
Bonnet roofs, although an unusual type of roof style, are a good choice for a home with a large, open-sided porch. Bonnet roofs are particularly popular in the French Vernacular style of architecture.
Identification
Bonnet roofs are a modification of hip (also known as "hipped") roofs. In hip roofs, unlike gable roofs, all sides of the roof slope down to meet the walls of the house. Because of this, all the walls in a house with a hip roof are the same height. Bonnet roofs are characterized by two slopes on all four sides of the structure, with the upper slope much steeper than the bottom slope. The bottom slope is often used to cover an open-sided porch that surrounds the building and is useful in shielding the house from bad weather or heat. Because this bottom portion of the roof looks like a large eave, bonnet roofs are often referred to as a "kicked eaves" roof, and give the house a visored look.
Features
Bonnet roofs share many of the advantages and disadvantages of other types of hip roofs. For instance, hip roofs are excellent choices for houses in areas that experience high wind or hurricane conditions because they are less likely than gable roofs to be severely damaged or ripped off. They also provide more shelter from the sun and rain and are easier to attach gutters to. However, houses with hip roofs have less internal roof space so that maintenance can be difficult and attic storage space is greatly decreased.
Types
Bonnet roofs are only one modification of the typical hip roof. Other types of hip roofs include the simple hip roof, the pyramid hip roof, the cross hipped roof, the half hipped roof, and the dutch gable (actually a mix of both the gabled and hipped roof). Like the bonnet roof, all of these roofs have sides that slope directly down to meet the top of the building's walls.
Significance
Bonnet roofs are a major component of French Vernacular architecture, a style of architecture that reflects the influences of the Cajuns and the Creoles in the late 1700s. French Vernacular is found mainly in Louisiana and in towns that sprang up along the Mississippi River in the 18th century. The Cajuns were descended from Canadians that settled in Louisiana in the 1700s; the Creoles were descended from people of European ancestry in the Mississippi Valley, West Indies and Gulf Coast.
History
In the past, a variation of the bonnet roof style was used extensively as a popular style of roof for greenhouses. These roofs were used in Germany and Poland in the mid 1700s since they provided protection from the cold and rain during bad weather while reflecting and magnifying the sun's rays onto the plants within the structure during good weather.
Making your home green simply means making it more friendly for the environment. It is a conscious decision not to waste energy and to begin doing your part to help out the planet. The best part is that you will actually save money when you start making your home a little greener. You can go crazy and implement all of the steps at once, or you can take them one step at a time.
Instructions
1
Remove all of your regular light bulbs and replace them with compact fluorescent energy-saving light bulbs. These light bulbs use 3/4 less electricity than regular light bulbs, and they can last up to seven years. Initially, the light bulbs may cost you a few extra dollars to install, but in the long run they will save you a lot of money.
2
Purchase a low-flow shower head for each of the showers in your home. This shower head just screws on, so it is a very easy project to take on. The shower head will regulate the flow of the water, so you don't waste any. This saves water, energy and money.
3
Unplug all electronics and appliances in your home when they are not in use. You may think you are not using any energy when your appliances and electronics are not on, but that is wrong. Any device that is plugged in is using some kind of electricity. It is best to unplug appliances when you are finished using them. This only takes an extra second of your time, and it is well worth it in the end.
4
Adjust your thermostat. Start keeping the thermostat two degrees lower than normal in the winter and two degrees higher in the summer. It is such a slight change that you probably won't even notice. You also will want to turn the thermostat down when you are going to bed for the night, or when you are planning on being away from your home for more than two hours. This will drastically save you energy and money on your heating bill.
5
Swap your appliances for some that contain an Energy Star rating. This means the appliance has passed many tests that prove it saves on the amount of electricity needed to run it. It is a great way to make your home green.
6
Start using solar panels to get your energy from the sun instead of the electric company. If you decide to install all the necessary solar panels at once, it can be a little expensive. There is another option, however. Add a few new solar panels each year until you have enough to provide all of the energy your home needs.
7
Have an energy test done on your home, so you can find out where air is escaping from the home. Then take the time to plug up those areas so you are not wasting heat in the winter or air conditioning in the summer. You also will be able to tell if your insulation is doing a good job, or whether you need more of it.
Maybe you remember your parents yelling, "Turn off the lights." Now that you pay your own utility bills, you understand. This old-time advice our parents lived by and the modern trend of living green fit together nicely. Embrace them to save money on your monthly utility bills.
Instructions
1
Replace your light bulbs with bulbs labeled Energy Star. This lighting uses 75 percent less energy than standard bulbs and lasts up to 10 times longer.
2
Save money on utility bills by turning the TV off when you aren't watching it and powering down computers and monitors when not in use. Both of these are energy-hungry electronics and the minutes -- and dollars -- add up.
3
Install a programmable thermostat if you have trouble remembering to reduce the heating and cooling when you go to bed. After a few months, you will have paid for the thermostat, and you'll see savings month after month.
4
Close off the vents in unused rooms. Heating and cooling them just costs you money.
5
Adjust to a somewhat higher temperature in the summer and a somewhat lower one in the winter, even during the day and set your thermostat accordingly. Just a few degrees make a difference. Put on a sweater and some socks and have a cup of hot tea in the winter; make it iced tea in the summer.
6
Save all your baking for the wintertime. Enjoy salads, sandwiches and microwave dishes during the warm months.
7
Install radiant barrier as an economical way to reduce heating and cooling costs. This reflective material is generally used in an attic over insulation or under the roof. Some homeowners and renters use radiant barrier on unused windows to save additional money on utility bills.
8
Check how much energy your freezer and refrigerator are using at energystar.gov and determine if replacing them with newer models will save you money. As a guideline, Energy Star standards and practices have changed significantly since 2001 with at least a 40 percent savings since that time.
9
Fix or replace any poorly sealed areas around windows, major appliances and doors for a decrease in utility bills. Most DIY repairs of this type are simple and inexpensive.
10
Take short showers instead of baths. If you don't believe it makes a difference, put the plug in the bathtub when you take a shower and check the water level. It'll be lower than you expect. Replace the shower nozzle for additional energy savings.
11
Clean or change air filters once a month to reduce energy costs and keep your environment cleaner.
A well-made roof can add to the overall look of your home. And, depending on the structure, it can also add space to the attic. Finding a trustworthy contractor will be worth your time, as he will be able to advise you on the materials that are best suited for the weather conditions in your area. Roofs are made up of the following parts.
Dormer
A dormer is built around a window and projects from the roof. It is often used in attics to add light and a pleasing design to the house.
Roof Truss
A truss is a triangular wood structure that supports the roof and gives it added strength. It takes several trusses to build the structure that supports the roof.
Rafter
A rafter is a parallel beam that supports the roof, and is part of the truss. They are the main frame of the roof.
Sheathing
Sheathing, also called decking, covers the rafters, and tar paper is laid on top of it. Plywood is the most common material used for decking. Once the tar paper is installed to the sheathing, shingles are nailed to the roof.
Underlayment
Tar paper is the more common term for underlayment. Tar paper protects the decking from moisture and other weather elements.
Drip Edge
A drip edge is constructed at the bottom of the roof. It is designed to direct water to run off and away from the home.
A picture windows is designed to provide an open, unimpeded view to the outside, as if framing a picture. This window style, usually found in living rooms, brings natural light into the home while highlighting an outdoor view.
History
Throughout the 19th century, improvements in the flat-glass manufacturing process brought down fabricating costs and allowed manufacturers to increase the size of windows. During this period, small, single-family homes were the cornerstone of middle-class life. The picture window allowed home owners the feeling of spaciousness which was in direct contrast with actual home dimensions.
Function
The picture window is a large, fixed, usually single-paned window. It provides a broad unimpeded outside view, as if framing a picture.
Features
To improve energy efficiency, high solar gain glazing is a choice for cold climates while low solar gain glazing performs better in warmer climates. Picture windows are inoperable; this feature makes them appealing to individuals with allergies who must limit the amount of airborne contaminants within their home.
Considerations
Picture windows can be an attractive feature in a home. Before installing a picture window consider price, personal aesthetics, surrounding architecture and weather conditions.
Benefits
A picture window allows in a lot of natural light. This feature also can highlight an attractive outdoor view while providing a modern and contemporary look to the home.
